Last Visited: August 2026
I first visited Sweet Water Beach (or Glyka Nera as it is known in Greek) in 2023 and have made a point of coming back every year since. Only accessible on foot or by boat, the remoteness is the appeal. For me, it is the most spectacular beach that I have visited on Crete.
During my visits I have met people like Nigel who has been coming just to this spot (all the way from New Zelaand), every year for the last 40 years. Then there is Eva who has been an annual visitor with her parents and now daughter for the last 30 years. And of course Giannis who seems to establish camp on the beach for the entire summer season.
One of the most unique things that you will discover here is the source of fresh (sweet) water, bubbling up from beneath the surface in the water. Even on the beach itself, dig a few centimeters down and you will find fresh water, right out of the ground.
Quick Facts – Getting to Glyka Nera Beach
📍 Distance: 3.5km from Chora Sfakia
⏱️ Duration: 60 – 90 Minutes (30 minutes if you park at the trail head)
☀️ Go Early: No sun on the path after mid morning
⛴️ Boat: €4 each way, Deligiannis Lines, first sailing 9am
⏰ Last boat back: 19:15 from Loutro, 19:30 from Glyka Nera
🏖️ Boat runs: Chora Sfakia → Glyka Nera → Loutro – easy to combine both for a 2 day beach trip
🥾 Trainers essential — not flip-flops
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Is It Safe to Hike to Glyka Nera?
The hike is dangerous in parts as there are sheer drops down to the sea below. If you suffer from vertigo or are generally unstable on your feet, I do not recommend hiking. The boat is a better alternative for you.
However, I have done the hike several times now and each time it feels less scary than the last. Where the path is most dangerous (for a couple of hundred metres) there are cables to hold onto for safety. Watching your feet is imperative as some parts of this section are particularly rocky or slippery.
It is essential to walk in sturdy trainers or hiking shoes. Do not attempt to walk along the path in flip-flops.
Should I Walk or Take the Boat?
It depends what you want to experience. The walk is exhilarating and also allows you to get to Glyka Nera before the boats and other tourists start to arrive. I was there at 7:30am one August morning and had a full 90 minutes where the beach was exceptionally quiet. It was beautifully tranquil.
If you want to really experience the beach as the sun rises above the surrounding cliffs, walking is the best option.
The trail head is located around 3km outside of Sfakia on the road towards Anapoli. The path begins just to the edge of the road as it makes its first hairpin bend to climb the mountain.
However, as I said earlier, if you suffer from vertigo and are unsteady on your feet, do not attempt to hike. Take the boat.
Deligiannis Lines to Glyka Nera
📍 Located at the new harbour in Chora Sfakia
🕒 Sailings begin at 09:00 during peak season and at 10:15 during shoulder season
🌅 Last sailing from Loutro is at 19:15 and from Glyka Nera is at 19:30
🎟️ Tickets cost €4 each way (€5 if you also want to go to Loutro)
⚠️ The other ferry services from Sfakia (Anendyk & Athitis Lines) do not offer services stopping in Glyka Nera.
What Should I Bring?
As Glyka Nera is quite remote, I recommend bringing everything you need to be self sufficient for the day:
🥾 Hiking shoes or sturdy trainers
💧 Plenty of water
🧢 Sun hat or cap
🧴 Sunscreen
⛱️ Parasol or shade if you want to sit at the quieter end of the beach
There is a Taverna at the far end of the bay where you can buy drinks and food, however, service is particularly unfriendly. In August 2025, despite serving take away coffees, the owner refused to serve me a Freddo-cappuccino when I politely asked. He barked ‘No’ at me and in the same moment snatched the menu out of the hands of some other guests waiting for a table and kicked them out. I have made a point of not returning.
On the beach itself there are organised sections where sunbeds and parasols can be rented for the day;
💶 €10 for the day; for 2 sunbeds and an umbrella.
However, if you want more tranquility, I advise taking your own shade and establishing your spot for the day at the eastern end of the beach where it is more quiet.
💡 Top Tip: You can take sunbeds for here from the piles behind the main area and carry down to the quieter end of the beach. You’ll pay €3.50 per bed. The attendant, Giorgios, will come by in the afternoon to collect payment.
Is Glyka Nera Worth the Effort?
I have visited most of the beaches in Crete that regularly appear in top ten lists. For me, this is the number one beach to visit in Crete for a few reasons. The natural beauty of the place is outstanding: dramatic cliffs, crystal clear water and tranquility that you don’t always find in places like Balos or Elafonisi.
I spent many days there this summer, often from the time the sun appeared on the beach from the east, until it dropped behind the mountains in the west at the end of the day. And it still felt too short. There is a freedom about the place, cut off from the world by car that does wonders for the mind. One of the many the reasons that I keep on coming back.
It is worth noting that there is an informal zoning on the beach:
⬅️ West end – naturist friendly
↔️ Middle – mixed naturists and clothing together
➡️ East end (nearest to the Taverna) – clothing required
Can I Combine Glyka Nera with Loutro?
This is one of the best combinations if you are only visiting the area for the day.You can visit Loutro and Glyka Nera with one ticket from Deligiannis Lines.
My personal recommendation is to spend the day at Glyka Nera and then take the boat to Loutro at 17:00. Enjoy some sundowners and a bite to eat at Loutro then take the last boat back to Sfakia at 19:15.
FAQs
Is it safe to hike to Glyka Nera?
The walk can be challenging and is not recommended if you are afraid of heights or unsteady on your feet. There are some sheer drops from the path for around 200 metres. There are cables to hold onto in various sections of the path.
How do I get to Glyka Nera?
You can hike from the trail head located around 3km outside of Chora Sfakia on the road to Anapoli. Alternatively you can take the boat from the new harbour at Chora Sfakia.
Should I walk or take the boat to Glyka Nera?
It depends on the experience that you want. If you want to be there early as the sun appears on the beach then you will need to walk. If you prefer to avoid the hike in and don’t mind arriving a little later, take the boat.
What should I bring for the hike?
🥾 Walking shoes or trainers
💧 Plenty of water
🧴 Sunscreen (the path is quite exposed once the sun comes up)
Can I visit Glyka Nera and Loutro in one day?
Yes. This is a great combination. Visit Glyka Nera for the day, then take a boat later afternoon to enjoy sundowners at Loutro. The last Deligiannis Lines boat to Sfakia from Loutro departs at 19:15.
The Wrap Up
There is no other beach in Crete like Glyka Nera. Taking its name in Greek from the sweet water that is found beneath the beach and the seabed, Glyka Nera is a unique place to visit.
I recommend hiking to the beach to experience it at its best, first thing in the morning and enjoying a full day there.
However, if you only have one day in the area, combining Glyka Nera with a visit to Loutro is the perfect plan to experience these two unique locations.
Spend at least a whole day in Glyka Nera and you will understand why people like Giannis establish camp there and spend every possible moment of the summer months there.
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Written by Richard Hoskisson
After 22 years based in Dubai, I’m now settled on the French Riviera, with long stretches in Crete each summer and Cape Town each winter. I write candid, first-hand travel guides from wherever I actually am.