Last Visited: August 2026
I drove the coast road between Plakias and Sfakia, via Frangokastello, around ten times this summer at sunrise and sunset and I still can’t decide which I prefer. The White Mountains (Lefka Ori) run along the entire coast, descending straight down to the sea. It is an unforgettable drive.
I first came to Crete as a child in the 1980s, and I’ve kept coming back for longer each time. This year it was six weeks, based between Plakias and Chora Sfakion. In all that time, the south coast is where I’ve found the island’s best scenery and beaches, and the Libyan Sea here is a blue I haven’t seen anywhere else in Greece.
This guide covers every beach between Plakias and Sfakia that I visited in July and August 2026. Some are among the best in Crete. A few I’d skip entirely, and I’ll tell you which, along with what the roads are like and what to expect when you arrive. At some of them, I had the beach to myself.
Quick Facts – Beaches Between Plakias & Sfakia
🌊 Favourite beach: Glyka Nera
💶 Cheapest sunbeds: Koutelos – €3 (2026)
🌬️ Sheltered on a windy day: the cove just past Polyrizos
🌿 Naturist: Fliski (enforced) · Orthi Ammos, far east end · Glyka Nera, marked section
⚠️ I’d skip: Vatalos, Hondras Volakas
🚗 No bus service — you’ll need a hire car
🆕 New for 2026: paved road down to Agia Marina
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Map of Beaches Between Plakias & Sfakia
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Plakias to Rodakino
I have divided the journey into smaller sections. The first from Plakias to Rodakino is the most dramatic stretch of coastline. The roads wind and the terrain is rocky, almost lunar and the view open up from the cliff tops. It is my favourite part of the coast.
My guide begins after Souda beach — I cover everything from Kerames, near Preveli, up to Souda in my Plakias beaches post.
Stavri Beach
As the road ascends from Souda and past Foinikias Taverna, you will immediately see the unusual rocky terrain that I mentioned earlier. Stavri beach is located just a kilometre or so after the Taverna.
💡 Best for: Tranquillity seekers hoping to find a beach they could have to themselves.
🌿 What it’s like:
Stavri Beach is fine pebbles and sand underfoot. There are no sunbeds or shade at the beach so you will need to bring everything to be self-sufficient. The beach is often quiet enough that nudism is tolerated.
🌊 Swimming: The water is perfect for snorkelling, visibility is excellent. It is a small, shallow bay and entry to the water is easy.
📍 Location: Just after Foinikias Taverna on the road between Souda and Korakes Beach.
⚠️ Good to know: You will need to park at the roadside (make sure you leave enough passing distance for other cars). Follow the footpath down, it is visible from the road and the scramble down is a few hundred metres.
💡 Top Tip: Make sure you have a decent walking shoe or trainer (not flip-flops for the walk down).
Korakas Beach
As the stretch of rocky terrain comes to an end and you rumble down the final steep stretch of concrete road, you’ll reach Korakas Beach.
💡 Best for: Families or those wanting an easy car direct to beach day.
🌿 What it’s like:
It is a wide sandy beach, with a few areas of organised sunbed areas. The beach itself is quite long and it’s nicer towards the eastern end, near the rocky outcrop. Expect it to be busy at the weekends, it is a favourite amongst the local population.
🌊 Swimming: Entry to the water is easy as the water remains shallow for quite a long way.
📍 Location: Right at the bottom of the road that leads down from Ano Rodakino.
⚠️ Good to know: As the sand is darker, it can get incredibly hot during the peak hours of the day. Make sure you have shoes to make your way to the water’s edge.
💡 Top Tip: When you arrive on the road from Souda, the shadier parking is to the left as you reach the beach.
Polyrizos (Rodakino on some maps)
Note that this beach appears under two different names depending on what map you are using – Polyrizos on Google Maps and Rodakino on Apple Maps.
Regardless of which name you use, this is a lovely beach to stop at.
💡 Best for: Families and those wanting to rent sunbeds for the day.
🌿 What it’s like:
This is a lovely little cove at the end of the road of Rodakino with a well organised area of sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. The beach itself is fine sand underfoot. There are a couple of good tavernas behind the beach. The Polifimos Taverna makes a great Freddo Cappuccino.
🌊 Swimming: The water is shallow and calm. Entry to the water is easy.
📍 Location: The far end of the road from Rodakino (just before the road turns a sharp right up hill).
⚠️ Good to know: I came on a day that it was particularly windy in Plakias and was pleased to find that the bay was a little more sheltered than some of the other beaches in the Plakias area.
💡 Top Tip: There are a few ‘private’ little coves along the road just before the main beach. Park on the roadside and look for some steps down in between the bushes. There are two little rocky coves that are like little private beaches.
Paralia Rodakino and Peristeres
These two beaches merge into one long sandy stretch that is fast becoming my new favourite spot along this part of the south coast. I spent many afternoons here during the last summer season.
💡 Best for: Those looking for a quieter more relaxed vibe.
🌿 What it’s like:
This is a long sandy beach. At the eastern end you will find a small section of sunbeds to rent in front of Manolis’ Taverna at the eastern end of the beach. There is another restaurant at the western end of the beach – Anna’s Taverna. As you head along the beach towards the west end you will find lots of little shaded tree areas, popular with people camping – wild camping isn’t technically legal in Greece, but it is widely practised along this stretch of coast. You will encounter some nudism in the middle section of the beach and amongst some of the campers.
🌊 Swimming: The water is shallow and calm. In the centre section of the beach, (near the little rocky island in the sea) are some of the most unusual rock formations I have ever seen underwater – like an old riverbed, submerged beneath the water’s surface.
📍 Location: You can access the beach from both ends, either the first left turn at The Land of the Olive Taverna, or a left turn after the church at Agia Marina beach.
⚠️ Good to know: The road behind the beach is an ‘off road’ track, but I have navigated it in a Fiat 500 and a Fiat Panda without any issue.
💡 Top Tip: Go to Anna’s Taverna at the western end of the beach. I love this place, it is very informal and you will get a great Cretan salad.
Paralia Agia Marina
Just around the headland from Anna’s Taverna on Peristeres Beach is the pretty little beach of Agia Marina. There is the quaint church of Agia Marina just behind the beach. I enjoyed stepped inside for a moment of reflection.
💡 Best for: A relaxed quieter vibe without having to drive along the rougher track behind Peristeres Beach.
🌿 What it’s like:
This is a sandy beach a few hundred metres long. Again it is popular with campers who may stay for a few days at a time. There are no sunbed rentals at Agia Marina. You may encounter some nudism along the entire stretch of the beach. There is a very laid back vibe here.
🌊 Swimming: Entry to the water is easy and it stays shallow for a long way. In some sections it is rocky underfoot and can be a slippery, so water shoes can be helpful.
📍 Location: Just beyond Peristeres beach, before the road climbs away from the coast towards Chania region and Frangokostello.
⚠️ Good to know: There’s a small section of unpaved road behind the beach. The road out toward Frangokastello used to be a difficult climb, but as of 2026 there’s a new paved bypass to the left at the end of the beach that gets you away from the coast easily.
💡 Top Tip: The water is nicer for swimming towards the eastern end of the beach, as it gets deeper a little quicker.
I’ve done that Agia Marina road in a Fiat 500 and a Fiat Panda, so a small hire car will manage it fine. I use Auto Europe to compare rates, click below to find your best rate.
Frangokastello Area
As you leave the beach of Agia Marina via the little bypass road, you eventually leave the region of Rethymno and pass into the region of Chania. The landscape changes a little as you head back into olive grove and goat farming territory.
The town of Frangokastello is famous for its Venetian fortress, however there are also some beautiful beaches to discover – plus some that I would avoid entirely.
Keratidi Beach
I have been trying to find the access to this beach for the past few years (which appears on both Google and Apple Maps), but with no success. It is very difficult to find the path to access it; I could not find access through the houses where the road ends, or on the other side where the farmland is. I am therefore unable to review this beach.
Paralia Lakkes
The first beach that you will easily find as you enter into Chania region, Paralia Lakkes is a beach where things are clearly on the up. There is some building work going on behind the beach with new luxury apartments under construction.
💡 Best for: Families and less confident swimmers.
🌿 What it’s like:
This is a family-friendly beach that is split into two sections; the main beach and the harbour/bay area which is more suited to less confident swimmers, due to its sheltered nature. There are a small number of sunbeds for rental, mainly in front of the taverna.
🌊 Swimming: The main beach fronts Kioni Taverna; the sheltered harbour is the calmer option.
📍 Location: As you leave Agia Marina, follow the road, take the first left (on paved road) then at the end turn right down towards the beach.
⚠️ Good to know: The Kioni Tavrena is popular with Cretan Safari groups so it can get busy in the afternoons.
💡 Top Tip: Park in the shaded area in front of the taverna; this parking is not exclusively for the taverna.
Orthi Ammos
On the road heading into Frangokostello, Orthi Ammos is my favourite beach in the area. It is a long beach beneath dramatic white cliffs. Legend has it that the sands of the beach hide the bodies of over 300 Cretan soldiers fighting for Greek independence, slaughtered during the battle of Frangokostello in 1828.
💡 Best for: Sandy beach lovers, naturists and snorkellers.
🌿 What it’s like:
Orthi Ammos is a long sandy beach that curves around the coastline for several hundred metres beneath tall white cliffs. Access to the beach is possible from several access points at the road above. There is always plenty of parking. Expect a mixed crowd; the eastern end of the beach is exclusively naturist whereas the western part of the beach is popular with families.
🌊 Swimming: The clarity of the waters at Orthi Ammos makes it great for snorkelling.
📍 Location: On the road into Frangokostello around 1-2km before you reach the fort.
⚠️ Good to know: The tavernas above the beach are great for lunches. I recommend Akti Taverna found in the centre of the beach.
💡 Top Tip: The sand can get extremely hot during peak season – shoes for walking on the beach are advised.
Frangokastello
You can’t fail to notice the Venetian fort as you drive into Frangokastello. I recommend stepping inside to look around, it has been restored extremely well. Combine the fort with a swim or afternoon at the beach in Frangokastello.
💡 Best for: Families with children and visitors to the fort.
🌿 What it’s like:
The beach is a wide spit of sand creating a small peninsula in front of the Venetian fort. There are a couple of areas of organised sunbed areas for rent.
🌊 Swimming: Due to it being a sandy beach, water entry is easy. The shallow waters are perfect for children.
📍 Location: Immediately in front of the fort at Frangokastello – park at the fortress car park.
⚠️ Good to know: Entry to the Venetian fort is free.
Hondras Volakas & Vatalos
These are two of a few of the beaches along the coastline immediately after Frangokastello. I have visited on a number of occasions and never found them to be appealing and would advise against visiting for more than a photo stop.
Hondras Volakas has an okay bay, and there’s plenty of accommodation nearby, but I’ve passed by a number of times — on windy days and calm ones — and it’s just never appealed to me.
Vatalos was bleak the first time I saw it, on a windy day. I went back a few days later to give it a fair chance, and it still didn’t win me over.
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Frangokastello to Chora Sfakion
As you leave Frangokastello behind and rejoin the main road between Plakias and Sfakia, you will drive through a few villages towards the Imbros Gorge. As you enter the village of Vouvas, a sharp left turn will take you down to the beach of Koutelos.
Koutelos
I recommend visiting the beach of Koutelos. The drive down the meandering road is scenic and, when you arrive, the beach is delightful. There are actually two sections to the beach and the small harbour is great for swimming, it reminded me of the tidal pools I love to visit when I am in Cape Town.
💡 Best for: Tranquillity but with facilities and a taverna.
🌿 What it’s like:
The main beach in front of the taverna and apartments has a small number of sunbeds for rent – the cheapest I have seen in Crete at €3 per bed. There is plenty of shade under the tamarisk trees. The taverna is good for lunch and their Greek salad is excellent.
🌊 Swimming: Entry to the water is easier beyond the taverna. It can be a little rocky and slippery at the main section of beach.
📍 Location: Close to the village of Vouvas on the Plakias – Sfakia main road.
⚠️ Good to know: There is no nudism, and signs explicitly state this on arrival at the beach.
💡 Top Tip: Walk past the harbour to the beach on the other side. You may well find that you have the beach to yourself.
Tiny beach next to Fliski
This is an easy beach to miss and takes a little bit of effort to get to. But if you are looking for adventure and the possibility of having the beach to yourself it is worth seeking out.
💡 Best for: Those looking for more seclusion where nudism is tolerated.
🌿 What it’s like:
Fliski is a charming little bay at the end of a wadi/small stream that flows in winter. It is made up of 2 little bays separated by rocks. There have been few people there each time I have visited.
🌊 Swimming: The swimming is spectacular as the underwater rock creates a beautiful azure blue colour.
📍 Location: Just before Paralia Fliski, take the unpaved track to the left. There is a small parking section, then follow the path down to the beach.
⚠️ Good to know: On Apple Maps it is called ‘Mini Nudist Beach’ not Fliski.
💡 Top Tip: Scramble over the rocks to the east of the beach and you will reach a much larger bay that is also a great place to spend a few hours.
Paralia Fliski
This is one of Crete’s only official nudist-only resorts and is located close to the Vritomartis Naturist Resort. A strict ‘nudism only’ rule is in place. I personally have no issue with nudism on beaches, but I honestly found the whole vibe at Fliski a little off.
💡 Best for: Naturists
🌿 What it’s like:
The beach itself is a small cove with shallow waters and organised sunbeds. The far section of the beach, beneath the cliff, is more informal – however I would caution against sitting too close to the cliff, in case of falling rocks.
🌊 Swimming: Entry to the water is very difficult as there is a large rock slab that becomes very slippery.
📍 Location: Along the road a little further from the Vritomartis Naturist Resort.
⚠️ Good to know: there is a security guard at the entrance to the beach who insists that the nudism only rule is adhered to. The eastern end of Glyka Nera beach, is a far better option if you’re looking for naturism in a more laid back environment.
Agios Charalambos
Agios Charalambos is easily reached by car and is a great option if you want to park right at the beach with no scrambling down rocky footpaths.
💡 Best for: A convenient quick stop right at the beach.
🌿 What it’s like:
It’s a small bay with easy access into the water. The times I have visited I have only ever seen 2 or 3 other people at the beach itself. There are no sunbeds or shade so you will need to bring everything you require for the stay.
🌊 Swimming: Entry to the water is easy and the swimming is very pleasant as the water is not too shallow and the clarity is excellent.
📍 Location: Close to the Vritomartis Naturist Resort.
⚠️ Good to know: Despite being so close to the naturist resort, nudism is not allowed.
💡 Top Tip: Combine this beach with a few hours at Ammoudi (see below)
Ammoudi Beach (Sfakia, not the Plakias one)
There are many beaches with the name Ammoudi and this should not be confused with Ammoudi beach in Plakias.
💡 Best for: Tranquillity seekers, prepared to scramble down the path to get there.
🌿 What it’s like:
Ammoudi is a beautiful cove that is worth the short walk to get to. Each time I have visited there has been no one else at the beach, and the last time only one couple arrived just as I was leaving. There are no sunbeds or shade at the beach so bring all provisions with you.
🌊 Swimming: A stunning spot for swimming and snorkelling – the water is beautiful and the underwater rock formations make for interesting viewing.
📍 Location: Located just to the south of Vritomartis Naturist Resort
⚠️ Good to know: Despite being the closest beach to the naturist resort, nudism is not allowed.
💡 Top Tip: There is a small parking section just after where the beach is, park there and then take the pathway on the left hand side of the road down to the beach.
Chora Sfakion and the End of the Road
Chora Sfakion or ‘Sfakia’ as it is more commonly known is my favourite seaside village along the south coast of Crete. I strongly recommend basing yourself here for at least a few nights. The village is thriving without being busy and the beaches are amongst the best in the whole of Crete.
Chora Sfakion Port Beach
No one actually swims here apart from the odd hiker en route back from the Samaria Gorge. The little harbour is busy all day with marine traffic so I advise against getting too deep into the water here.
Saying that, I did my daily workouts at the harbour wall and ended each day with a plunge into the sea – but this was at 7am before the boat traffic starts for the day.
Vrissi Beach
This is the other beach in Sfakia itself that is very easily accessed from the town.
💡 Best for: Those staying in Sfakia or passing through.
🌿 What it’s like: This is a beautiful cove beneath the cliffs of Sfakia. Like its dramatic neighbour – Glyka Nera – you will experience the phenomenon of fresh water rising from beneath the seabed. This lowers the sea temperature quite dramatically in patches and makes for a perfectly refreshing swim in the hot summer months. There are sunbeds to hire – run by a mother and daughter team – I always enjoy talking to the daughter about her university studies in Cyprus.
🌊 Swimming: I love swimming and snorkelling here. The water colour, combined with the ‘fresh water’ feel make it perfect for visibility underwater. I often swim out to the rocks off shore for some adrenaline packed rock jumping.
📍 Location: Located to the west of Sfakia village – the beach is well signposted in the village.
⚠️ Good to know: During the evenings the beach becomes an outdoor cinema (weather and sea condition permitting). Tickets can be purchased in advance from the sunbed team.
Ilingas Beach
A short walk or drive out of Sfakia on the road that winds up into the White Mountains to Anapoli is Ilingas Beach – one that should not be missed.
💡 Best for: A full beach day, with a rewarding swim for anyone confident enough to reach the hidden cove.
🌿 What it’s like:
A long stretch of beach located at the end of the Kavi gorge. There are actually three separate beaches all separated by rocky outcrops that you need to swim round to reach. The main beach is excellent and reachable on foot from the car park. There are plenty of sunbeds and shade for rent.
🌊 Swimming: Like all the beaches around Sfakia, the swimming is exceptional thanks to the ‘fresh water’ mixing with the salty Mediterranean.
📍 Location: A round 1.5km outside of Sfakia on the road to Anapoli.
⚠️ Good to know: The small cove to the east of the beach that can only be reached through the water is beautiful. If you are a strong swimmer I recommend swimming round to it.
💡 Top Tip: If driving, be mindful of where you park the car if the car park is full. Parking on the road can be dangerous, as goats dislodge rocks higher up that often fall down into the road and onto the parked cars.
Where the Road Runs Out
After Ilingas Beach the road ascends and just as you reach the first hairpin bend before the road rises further towards Anapoli is the access point for my favourite beach of all – Glyka Nera.
Glyka Nera / Sweet Water Beach
I first visited Glyka Nera in 2024 and instantly fell in love with its dramatic landscape during the hike to the beach as well as the familiar faces of return visitors each year who have now become friends. I have written at length about Glyka Nera in my post on Beaches in Crete.
💡 Best for: A full beach day and those looking for laid back naturism.
🌿 What it’s like:
It is a peaceful and relaxed beach, with a naturist section located at the far end, furthest from the boat pier. There are sunbeds to hire along half of the beach closest to the taverna. The beach takes its name from the ‘sweet water’ that is found beneath its surface. Dig down slightly into the rocks on the beach itself and you will find cold, refreshing fresh water.
🌊 Swimming: The water is spectacular, with a freshwater source bubbling up from the rocks below, like the other beaches around Sfakia. However at Glyka Nera if you swim a little further out, the water turns the blue that you only ever see in picture postcard shots of Greece.
📍 Location: Midway between Sfakia and Loutro.
⚠️ Good to know: There’s clear signage marking the clothing-optional area, but most of the beach is mixed and easygoing.
💡 Top Tip: Hike in early in the morning before the boats begin to arrive and take the boat back late in the afternoon. Full details on getting there are in my post on Glyka Nera.
Where to Stay in Plakias and Sfakia
For exploring this stretch of coastline staying in either Plakias or Sfakia is recommended. I have stayed in both Sfakia and Plakias on many occasions and can recommend the following options;
Plakias
NERĒA Boutique Hotel – I just love the decor here and the tranquillity of the hotel, right on the beachfront in Plakias is superb.
Stefanos Village Hotel – for the best views over the bay of Plakias.
Sfakia
The Authentic Village Boutique Hotel – This is truly a beautiful hotel in the heart of Sfakia. The entire hotel has been tastefully furnished.
Ventus Luxury Suites – Also in the heart of Sfakia, with most rooms having sea views over the harbour.
FAQs
Are there naturist beaches between Plakias and Sfakia?
Yes. Paralia Fliski is officially naturist-only, and there are clothing-optional stretches at Orthi Ammos, Glyka Nera and the tiny beach next to Fliski. Agios Charalambos and Ammoudi, despite sitting close to the Vritomartis resort, don’t allow nudism.
What’s the best beach here on a windy day?
The cove just past Polyrizos is sheltered and worth seeking out. Vatalos and Hondras Volakas, by contrast, are exposed and bleak when it’s blowing.
Can you swim at Chora Sfakion?
Yes and No — the harbour is busy with boat traffic most of the day. Early mornings, before around 7am, are the exception. Vrissi beach is the best option for swimming in Sfakia.
Do I need a 4×4 for these beaches?
No. I’ve driven this entire route in a Fiat 500 and a Fiat Panda, as well as a Jeep. The road down to Agia Marina used to be rough, but a small bypass was paved in 2026 making the drive much easier.
Where are the cheapest sunbeds?
Koutelos, at €3 a bed (2026 prices) — the cheapest I found anywhere in Crete.
Can you access any of these beaches without a car?
There is no bus service along this stretch of coastline – having your own hire car is necessary.
The Wrap Up
The coastline between Plakias and Sfakia is amongst the most scenic drives that I have done in Europe – the beautiful White Mountains descending dramatically to the Libyan Sea are just what makes it so special. I have been exploring this stretch of coast for many years now and am still finding new favourites.
Of course Glyka Nera is my absolute favourite beach because of the dramatic scenery, the swimming conditions and the people I have met there over the years.
But this year I spent more time at Paralia Rodakino and loved it because of the fascinating underwater rock formations that I discovered. And next year I want to spend more time at Orthi Ammos – it is just my vibe. Finally of course Vrissi is great simply because of the ease of access from Sfakia itself.
Whether you are coming to the south coast of Crete for a few days or longer, this stretch of coastline between Plakias and Sfakia is worth making time to explore.
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Written by Richard Hoskisson
After 22 years based in Dubai, I’m now settled on the French Riviera, with long stretches in Crete each summer and Cape Town each winter. I write candid, first-hand travel guides from wherever I actually am.