Last Visited: August 2026
I first visited Chania in 1981. Aged just 4 years old, my memories are patchy, other than there being a cute goat down the road from where we stayed that we called Billy. I also vaguely recall being in the harbour, although I probably was not walking, I would get ‘tired legs’ as a child. Seeing the family photo albums and the images of the old town made me yearn to return.
41 years later, I returned to Crete and Chania was the first port of call. I had planned my own walking tour in advance and I was enchanted by the old city; the harbour, the restaurants inside buildings with no roofs, and the mosque, where time seemed to have stood still from my photo in 1981.
For many people Chania is the landing point on their Cretan holiday, and I recommend flying into Chania over Heraklion if that choice is available to you. I would not use Chania as a base for my entire vacation but a night on arrival or prior to departure is the perfect amount of time to discover the city. Go early. The harbour before the city wakes up is the best time to be there. After 2pm the city gets busy and stays that way long into the evening.
I have now visited six times over the last five years and each time I find something new; ancient wine cellars on display underneath a jewellery store, back streets just behind the main touristy areas, where no one goes. This guide is the Chania Old Town walking tour that I have developed over the years. Start at the harbour at 8am.
Quick Facts – Chania Old Town Walking Tour
📍 One route ~5km, harbour to cathedral — on foot, no car needed
⏰ Start at 8am — the harbour is yours before the tour buses; busy again after 2pm
☕ Coffee stop: Phyllo Bakery — Freddo Cappuccino + banana bread, ~€7
🏰 Firkas Fortress is free; the Maritime Museum inside is €5
🍽️ Eat: Amphora Taverna or Faka, ~€10–20 a dish
🛏️ Stay: Elia Zampeliou or Domus Renier, right on the harbour
🕌 See: the minaret-less mosque, the old synagogue, and the cathedral locals call Trimartiri
✉️ One Night here is enough – Get more honest Crete guides like this one — join my list
Why One Night in Chania and Not More
Crete is an enormous island. I only recommend one night in Chania simply because there is so much to see outside of the city. There’s also the crowds. Chania gets busy each day after 2pm and after a while it becomes exhausting.
One night and two days in Chania is enough to see the Old Town, explore the harbour and experience a flavour of the city before heading off to see other parts of the island.
If you are only in Crete for one week, this is the 7 day itinerary that I would follow.
The Walking Route: Start at Eight
As a 5am riser most days (22 years of getting up early for school in Dubai), I will always advocate for seeing a place first thing in the morning. And Chania is no exception to the rule. During peak season, it is an extremely popular city. In fact, Chania International Airport handled 4.15 million passengers in 2025. I’m not saying they all showed up at the harbour every afternoon, but consequently, Chania does get very busy from mid afternoon onwards.
However, it seems that most visitors to Crete are late risers. If you are prepared to get out by 8am you can actually have many of the main sights around the Venetian Harbour to yourself. It is especially true at the harbour edge and walking along the breakwater to the Egyptian Lighthouse. I just love experiencing the tranquility of the harbour with the early morning sun appearing from over the Akrotiri peninsula in the east. On every visit to Chania, this has been a particular highlight for me and my motivation to get out there by 8am.
🅿️ – If you have not stayed overnight in Chania and are driving in for an early start, I recommend parking at Talos Square, just next to the fortress. Make sure you don’t park in the residents’ parking area (the last two parking lots on the left) and remember to buy a ticket from the parking meter (you’ll need to know your car registration number). You can park for 4 hours maximum and it costs €4.80. Alternatively if you don’t mind a few bumps in the road there is a parking lot on the right as you turn into Peiraios street – take the first right down the sandy ramp – parking here is free.
The Venetian Harbour at 8am
Start your walking tour at the Venetian Harbour. The 14th century harbour (constructed between 1320 and 1356) stretches from the imposing red coloured Firkas Fortress at the western side of the harbour all the way round to the magnificent Egyptian Lighthouse on the eastern side. A walk of approximately 2km connects the two landmarks and takes in some of Chania’s most picturesque sights.
I recommend starting at the fortress and walking along the edge of the harbour, past the restaurants, boutique hotels and gift shops lining the harbour edge. Then turning left towards the mosque of the Janissaries, and onwards towards and past the recently restored Grand Arsenal (now home to Centre of Mediterranean architecture), the Venetian Neoria (shipyards) before looping back along the breakwater towards the lighthouse.
Allow one hour to 90 minutes for the walk out to the lighthouse and back. Make sure that you wear decent walking shoes or trainers as the breakwater can be a little uneven to walk along. The mosque, the shipyards and the lighthouse each get their own stop below.
The colourful buildings of the Venetian harbour are a delight in the early morning sun, so much more vivid in colour than during the evening. Moreover, you will feel the city coming to life for the day ahead; the locals going about their business, hosing down the pavements, preparing table settings at the many restaurants and cafes as well as receiving deliveries all in preparation for the arrival of the day’s visitors.
📜 A bit of history – At the time of construction, the harbour was second in importance to the harbour of Venice itself. It was able to accommodate 40 galley ships and was a major trading hub of the eastern Mediterranean.
The Mosque of the Janissaries
As you progress along the harbour’s edge, you won’t fail to notice the imposing ochre coloured domes and stone walls of the Mosque of the Janissaries.
I first had my picture taken here in 1981 and it was a structure that fascinated me when looking in the family photo albums growing up (I don’t have any memory of the visit being only 4 years old at that time).
No longer a mosque or place of worship, but a space for art exhibitions, it is free to wander inside when it is open, which is usually in the evenings after 6pm. However, for me, it is a building that is better admired from the outside.
The most striking features of the mosque are the domes and the absence of a minaret, which was destroyed and removed in 1939. As you can see from my picture in 1981 (above) the mosque has not changed much.
📜 A bit of history – The mosque was built in 1645 and is also known as the Mosque of the Janissaries named after the local elite guard corps – known as janissaries. The courtyard was used as a burial ground for Ottoman governors. It ceased being used as a place of worship in 1923.
Also known as the Küçük Hasan Mosque, it is in fact the oldest Ottoman building in the whole of Crete. It was named in honour of Küçük Hasan Pasha who was the first garrison commander of Chania after the Ottoman occupation began.
The Grand Arsenal
As you progress along the harbour, it is worth taking a moment to admire the architecture and contrast of the buildings that line the harbour’s edge.
The Grand Arsenal is the first of the original Venetian shipyards that you will pass by. It was totally restored in 2002. Arguably the grandest of the 17 shipyards in Chania, it was designed with thick stone walls and a large working area where Venetian galleys could be repaired.
It now houses the Centre of Mediterranean Architecture and is a centre for exhibitions, performances and cultural events.
I recommend taking a slight detour from the harbour’s edge to the centre of the building and passing through the imposing archway. It is free to walk through and open 24 hours a day. Passing through from west to east and into the morning sun, it is poignant to stop and picture the many people for whom this would have been a regular route to work in the shipyards of long ago.
The Venetian Shipyards (Neoria)
Further along the harbour’s edge are seven more buildings of the Venetian shipyards. You will walk past these as you make your way towards the breakwater on the opposite side of the harbour.
Whilst they are in a state of disrepair and many seem to only be home to Chania’s population of pigeons, there is no denying a certain beauty in them like this. Although you cannot go inside, it is worth taking some time to just admire the Venetian architecture.
Originally built for the repair and maintenance of Venetian galley ships, the Neoria were later used as food storehouses during the Ottoman occupation.
You will find these often used as icons in representations of Chania’s skyline. If you like the buildings as much as I do, be sure to check out the Canea gift shop on Zampeliou later on in the tour. The most tasteful gift shop in all of Chania with some beautiful pieces featuring the Neoria.
The Egyptian Lighthouse and the Breakwater
My favourite part of the morning walk is along the breakwater towards the lighthouse. Although it is a little scramble up to the higher wall at the start of the breakwater, I recommend taking the elevated path out and back (it’s a few hundred metres to walk). You get the best vantage point of the harbour and the Mediterranean Sea from there.
⚠️ If you don’t want to scramble along the breakwater wall, it is possible to walk along the lower path with more ease, just a less impressive view.
I particularly like to stop at the bridge and watch as the fresh sea water rushes into the harbour with each wave. The views towards Akrotiri with the sun low in the sky are also spectacular. Truly a time to be thankful for the early start to the day.
Continue on along the wall to the abandoned Bastion of Agios Nikolaos. You will need to clamber over a low wall at the back of the Bastion to continue along the breakwater wall but know that there is passage through, it just gets a little rough underfoot.
Once you are past the bastion, the lighthouse lies ahead and what a spectacular sight it is. You’ll most likely have the view to yourself, or at least only share it with a few early morning joggers.
At the lighthouse itself you cannot go inside but you can climb up as far as the gate to take some interesting pictures of the structure.
📜 A bit of history – The lighthouse is similar to its smaller neighbour in Rethymno. However this one was originally built by the Venetians at the end of the 16th century. Then it was later reconstructed by Egyptian troops, stationed in Crete during the Ottoman occupation, between the years of 1830 and 1840.
Reaching 21 metres above the harbour of Chania the headlight is able to project as far out to sea as 7 nautical miles on a clear night.
Coffee Before the Fort – Phyllo Bakery
After the early morning start and the exertion of walking out to the lighthouse, a well deserved coffee break is the order of the day.
Phyllo Bakery is my coffee house of choice in Chania. Open daily from 9am, you should be just in time for the coffee machine to be warmed up and the fresh bakes of the day on display.
Retrace your steps all the way back to the corner of the Venetian harbour just after the mosque of the Janissaries – it is around 1.5km.
Take a right turn into Zampeliou (we will explore this street again later); it is just after the Starbucks a few metres back from the harbour and then take a left turn into Ioanni Kondylaki. Phyllo is located no more than 200 metres on the left.
It is a popular coffee shop and bakery. Their coffee is superb and their breakfast/brunch menu is well varied. I usually take a Freddo Cappuccino (€3.50) and a slice of banana bread (€3.50). However, next time I am definitely trying their toasted brioche with honey and mascarpone (€6.50) – I saw someone eating this as I left on my last visit. That’ll energise me to continue discovering the beauty of Chania.
Firkas Fortress and the Maritime Museum
After coffee, head back to the Fortress where you started the walk this morning. It will be open now (from 9am) and is free to enter the fortress grounds.
The Venetian fortress (Revellino del Porto) located at the northwest corner of the harbour dominates this side of the harbour. Although not as grand in size as the fortezza in Rethymno the fortress is worth visiting. Not least because it houses the Maritime Museum of Crete.
The fortress was built by the Venetians in the 1620s so that they could protect the harbour entrance. Later on during the Ottoman occupation the Turks used the fortress as barracks – hence the name Firka, meaning barracks.
The building also carries significance as it was the site where the Greek flag was raised on December 1st 1913, signalling the unification of Crete with the Greek nation.
If you are interested in Maritime History, make sure you also visit the Maritime Museum, the entrance is on the right as you go into the fortress. Inside you will find intricate scaled models of ships associated with Chania. You can even see the guys painstakingly building the ship models at the workshop in the back.
For me the exhibition on the evacuation of over 20,000 ANZAC and British soldiers via the Imbros Gorge and Sfakia in the south of Chania prefecture was fascinating. Not least because I have walked the Imbros Gorge on multiple occasions, and Sfakia is my favourite place to stay in Crete. Sadly not all the troops escaped, around 16,500 were evacuated to Alexandria in Egypt whilst an estimated 6,500 were left behind and captured.
🎟️ €5 to enter the Maritime museum – exploring the fortress grounds is free
⏰ Open from 9am until 4pm, closed on Sundays
⏱️ 30-45 minutes is enough time to visit both the fortress and the maritime museum
The City Districts
During the Ottoman occupation which began in 1645, the city was divided into different districts based on religion. The Greek Christians were sent to live in the Topanas district whilst the Jewish population resided in the Evraiki (or Ovraiki) area. The Ottomans chose to occupy the affluent districts of Kastelli and Splantzia.
Topanas
As you leave the fortress and museum entrance take a sharp right past the small restaurant. This will take you into the Topanas district which is arguably one of the most beautiful parts of Chania. Allow yourself at least half an hour here to wander in and out of all the streets to discover the real old Chania.
On my last visit I took the first right turn as you go up this street and then turned down a narrow alley way to the right. I found myself stepping back in time to an old courtyard where locals lived, and it was so atmospheric. And the best thing, not one single other tourist took this route whilst I was there. It was perfect for imagining what life had been like here in the past.
I recommend then taking your tour along Theotokopoulou street and admiring the grand buildings of the wider road. At the top, take a moment to turn right and view the gateway entrance to the city before turning in the opposite direction along Zampeliou.
Ovriaki / Jewish Quarter
Follow Zampeliou street and you will find many craft and tourist shops here. Don’t be afraid to go inside, they don’t all sell mass produced tourist merchandise. In fact in July this year I went inside one shop on the Zampeliou stairs and met a very nice local lady who was proud to show me that all her merchandise was all from Cretan artisans. Her pride in the products compelled me to make a purchase of something nice to take home.
Further along Zampeliou you will find on the right hand side the Canea store that I mentioned earlier and opposite that is the Temple Store. Of course take a look at the Canea store, they have some of the most tasteful souvenirs I have seen of Chania.
Then I implore you to step inside the Temple Store. You will find architectural clues to the Ottoman occupation. Originally a Venetian church, it was converted to a mosque. In the corner by the cash register is a religious niche as well as a glass floor showing the discovery of seventeen cist graves. Now, of course, the old temple is a homage to the needs of the modern day tourist.
At this point I suggest you turn off Zampeliou and head up the quieter Skoufon street to discover the more tranquil side of this neighbourhood.
Once you reach Portou take a left turn and head back towards Kondylaki (where you had coffee earlier on). It is worth taking a quick glance inside Méli restaurant. It is one of Chania’s many examples of restaurants inside old ruined buildings with no roof. Just a few doors down is Diamantakis jewellery store. Another store worth just stepping inside as there is a glass floor showing the old Venetian wine vats. The lady working there is always friendly and accommodating to visitors wanting to see inside and ask a few questions.
Spend a little more time exploring Kondylaki before heading over to the other side of the harbour and the Turkish quarter. The synagogue of Etz Hayyim halfway down Kondylaki is worth passing by (look for the small alleyway Parodos/Par Kondylaki). It is the only surviving synagogue on Crete and restored in the 1990s.
You may wonder why Kondylaki street is a little grander than the more narrow streets of the Old Town. This was where the most prominent Jewish community lived, and consequently the street needed to be wider so that their horse drawn carriages could be accommodated.
📜 A bit of history – On a more sombre note, once you reach the synagogue, it is worth taking a moment to remember the Jewish community of Chania. In May 1944, the entire Jewish population of Chania was arrested by the Nazis and held at the Agyia prison. A few weeks later they were taken to Heraklion and forced to board the cargo ship Tanais to be taken to the Greek mainland and eventually onto Auschwitz. On the morning of 9 June 1944 just off the coast of Crete the ship was torpedoed by the British submarine HMS Vivid, not knowing that the vessel was carrying innocent victims of war. The Tanais sank in about 15 minutes and the 260 – 280 Jewish residents from Chania all drowned. They were not alone, as other Greek resistance prisoners and Italian prisoners of war also perished.
It is a dreadful story but one that must be remembered, after all, as humans, we have more in common than that which divides us.
The synagogue of Etz Hayyim is a permanent memorial to the community, with roots dating back 2000 years on Crete, that was lost.
Connecting to the Turkish Quarter
To get to the Turkish quarter is around a 10 minute (600 metres) walk. As you reach the end of Kondylaki street turn right back onto Zampeliou and when you reach the fountain on your left keep going straight connecting onto the shopping street of Karaoli & Dimitriou, and then Sifaka.
On Sifaka you will pass by the old Byzantine walls which date back to the 6th and 7th century. The current walls were rebuilt in the 10th century. When you reach the street of Daskalogianni turn right and walk up towards Splantzia Square.
📜 A bit of history – The street of Daskalogianni is named after the shipowner from Anopoli in Southern Chania (near Sfakia) who led the 1770 Cretan revolt against the Ottoman occupation. Chania’s international airport is also named after him.
Splantzia Square & The Church of Agios Nikolaos
Splantzia square in the Turkish Quarter is one of the oldest parts of Chania. It is also referred to as 1821 Square in honour of the events that took place during the Greek war of independence.
Splantzia Square is and has been for centuries a focal point for locals and Chania’s prominent personalities. It is nice to take some time to rest in the shade of the large plane tree that dominates the centre of the square.
📜 A bit of history – Look out for the memorial plaque that commemorates two prominent Greeks who were executed here for the crime of fighting for independence from Ottoman rule. On 19 May 1821, the Bishop of Kissamos, Melchizedek Despotakis, and a deacon named Kallinikos were both hanged from the tree here.
Beneath the square is an Ottoman font that was discovered in the 1980s. It can be reached by climbing down the 27 stairs in the centre of the square. If you are lucky enough to be there when it is open, I recommend that you take the time to see the impressive monument. However, do note that it is only open on Thursdays and Fridays between 6pm and 8pm.
The church of Agios Nikolaos is one of my favourite sights in Chania. Simply because it is so unusual to see two different religious symbols – a minaret and a bell tower – sharing the same place of worship. The minaret is 40 metres tall and towers above the Chania skyline.
Whilst they now exist in harmony, that was not always the case. They are representative of the complex layered history of Crete. However, I like to think of it as a symbol of how we should now live, in harmony. I found the significance quite moving.
It is, in fact, the only church in Greece that preserves a Christian bell tower and an Islamic minaret side by side. Considerable restoration works in phases are underway to preserve the monument.
Take a walk around the entire perimeter of the church and wander down the cross-vaulted arcade of the original monastery to the north-east of the bell tower.
You can enter the church, although official opening time information is not consistent. However, for me it is the sight from outside that is the most impressive. The cathedral that you will visit at the end of the tour is more impressive inside.
📜 A bit of history – Originally built in 1320 as part of a monastery complex, it was converted into the city’s main mosque after the Ottoman invasion in 1645. After the departure of the Turks, the church was re-dedicated to Agios Nikolaos.
Directly opposite the Church of Agios Nikolaos is the Church of Saint Rocco. Constructed in 1630, it has been used as a church, a military guardhouse, and a gendarmerie station. Today it houses temporary art exhibitions.
Trimartiri Cathedral
As you pass the church of Saint Rocco continue along the narrowing streets back towards the town centre. There are plenty of streets to discover on the way just as you did earlier on in Topanas. It’s only around 400 metres to walk so a few little detours along the way will make it a pleasant exploration of the Turkish Quarter.
An alternative route is to head up Daskalogianni to the narrow alleyway of Chatzimichali Daliani. Wander along this small street past the Ahmet Aga Minaret. This is the only other remaining Ottoman minaret in Chania besides the one at Agios Nikolaos. Uniquely, it stands alone with no mosque or place of worship beside it.
Eventually you will emerge at the sun-drenched expanse of Chalidon Street. You will be glad of the shade of the trees in the Athinagora Square in front of the cathedral – The Holy Metropolitan Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary or Trimartiri for short.
It is worth stepping inside the grand three-aisled basilica which is open all through the day, unless there is a service ongoing. Remember to remove any hats you are wearing as a sign of respect when you enter.
📜 A bit of history – The cathedral itself stands on the site of a 13th century temple and later an Ottoman soap factory. The present day cathedral dates back to the 1860s.
The son of Mustafa Pasha, who was the Ottoman governor of Crete for two decades, fell into a well near to the current site and was successfully saved after a prayer was made to the Virgin. As an act of gratitude he gifted the site back to the Christian community. Pasha and the Sultan donated substantial amounts of money for the construction of the cathedral.
Interestingly, whilst the site was a soap factory, an icon of the Virgin Mary was kept in the olive storage room with a candle lit permanently in front of it. The icon was returned to the church after it was rebuilt.
I have always taken the time to light some candles at the rear of the church, even before I knew this history.
Where to Eat in Chania
I love Amphora Taverna right on the Venetian harbour. They make a point of not sending staff out front to pull you in. Granted it looks like a restaurant straight off the Mamma Mia set, but that is all part of the charm, plus the food is excellent. Most evenings they have some live traditional Greek music. It’s open all day and long into the evening. Expect to pay around €10 for a Greek Salad and €20 for a souvlaki dish.
I recently recommended Amphora to some friends visiting from Dubai, they went for a Greek salad at lunch time and liked it so much they went back in the evening too.
Alternatively closer to the Venetian Neoria, Faka serves traditional Cretan food, with many fresh seafood dishes on offer. A little off the main tourist route, Faka feels more genuinely Cretan. Open for lunch and dinner, expect to pay around €11 for a Greek salad and €20 for grilled octopus which is one of their specialities.
💡 Top Tip: I have a general rule of thumb when choosing somewhere to eat in any new place that I visit; if the staff hassle you to come in, I avoid it.
Where to stay
Elia Zampeliou – I have stayed here on multiple occasions and always get a warm welcome from Antonios at the reception. Prices are reasonable and range from €120 – €200 per night in peak season. Rooms facing the harbour are charged at the higher rate and some require a minimum 2 night stay.
Domus Renier Hotel – this is a stylish boutique hotel with many beautifully appointed rooms and suites overlooking the Venetian harbour. I have stayed here twice and loved the attention to detail in the hotel decor. Expect to pay €200 – €300 per night in peak season.
The Tanneries Hotel – I first saw this hotel in 2022 and was keen to go back ever since. I toured the rooms this year rather than staying and was not disappointed. Although it is a little further out of town (around 2.3km/30 minutes walk from the harbour) this area is very quickly becoming the trendy place to stay due to the gentrification of the entire neighbourhood. The hotel and spa reminds me of the quality of hotels you would find in the Middle East or South-East Asia. Room rates are in the region of €300 – €340 during peak season.
FAQs
Is Chania worth visiting?
Yes. I highly recommend visiting Chania. The Venetian Harbour and lighthouse are beautiful. And I advise you to spend some time wandering the backstreets of the historic Old Town neighbourhoods.
How many days do you need in Chania?
Don’t spend the whole holiday in Chania. One night is enough to see the main highlights. There is so much more to see beyond the city.
Chania or Rethymno – which one should I visit?
I would recommend visiting both. Chania’s harbour is the showstopper. However, I prefer wandering the back streets of Rethymno, and the Fortezza in Rethymno is more impressive than Chania’s fortress. However both cities have their individual beauty and charm.
Where should I eat in Chania?
I recommend Phyllo for coffee and brunch – expect to pay around €3 – €4 for a coffee. For lunch or an evening meal, try Amphora Taverna or Faka – entrées at both restaurants are priced at around €10, whilst main course cost typically around €20.
Where should I stay in Chania old town?
For accessibility to the main sights, staying in the old town is best. I prefer hotels along the Venetian harbour. Elia Zampeliou and Domus Renier are my favourites.
Is Chania old town walkable for older or less mobile travellers?
It is walkable, but do be aware that there are steps in some places and the surface underfoot can be quite uneven. Saying that, my 80 year old mother was able to negotiate the streets with her walking aid without issue, when I took her for a visit.
Should you Swim near Chania?
There are far better places to swim in Crete. However if you do want to dip in the water, the beach of Nea Chora is around 1km to the west of the Fortress and is the most easily accessible.
What’s the best time of day to see the Venetian Harbour?
Early in the morning, before the crowds arrive. I recommend walking from the fortress to the Lighthouse at 8am.
The Wrap Up – Chania, Crete Walking Tour
The whole walk that I have outlined in Chania, one route, harbour to cathedral, takes in the main sights and some that most other tours skip.
Start early, which is always my advice, before the tour buses arrive. Pass by the mosque of the Janissaries, out along the breakwater to the lighthouse and back for coffee at Phyllo. Then head over to the fortress and into the old quarters: the Jewish Quarter’s backstreets, down Zampeliou, through the Turkish Quarter to Splantzia, and finishing at the cathedral that the locals call Trimartiri. One morning, on foot, no car needed.
If you only take one piece of advice from my page, make it the timing: get out by 8am before the harbour starts to fill up.
Chania is a beautiful city, not much has changed since my first visit in 1981 – the buildings, the harbour, the monuments. But, revisiting as an adult, understanding more of Crete’s very layered history, makes each visit just that much more poignant. I am sure you will love it just as much as I do.
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Written by Richard Hoskisson
After 22 years based in Dubai, I’m now settled on the French Riviera, with long stretches in Crete each summer and Cape Town each winter. I write candid, first-hand travel guides from wherever I actually am.