Visiting Grasse, France: What to Do in the Perfume Capital
Wondering if Grasse, France is worth visiting? As a local living in nearby Plascassier, here’s my honest guide to the perfume capital of the world.
Perched in the hills between the Alps and the Mediterranean – Grasse is best known as the world’s perfume capital. But for me, it’s more than that. I live just nearby, in one of Grasse’s satellite villages, Plascassier (once home to Edith Piaf and Julia Child), and I see the town from my garden every day.
I’ll be honest — Grasse didn’t always charm visitors. For years it had a reputation for being run-down and a little rough around the edges. But that’s exactly why I want to encourage you to give it a second look. Over the past decade, the city has undergone a quiet transformation. Its colourful façades have been restored, the Old Town is cleaner, vibrant and more inviting, and there’s a renewed energy in its cafés, museums, and cultural spaces.
In this guide, I’ll share what to expect on a visit to Grasse — including how to get there, the top things to do, and why it might just surprise you.
How to Get to Grasse
Grasse is situated 22 km from Cannes and 46km from central Nice.
🚊By Train
Taking the train to Grasse is one of the easiest and most scenic ways to arrive. The town is well connected to the Côte d’Azur’s regional rail network, with regular services from Nice, Cannes, Antibes, Monaco, Menton, and even Ventimiglia in Italy.
Trains run approximately every 30 minutes, and at the time of writing, a one-way ticket from Nice to Grasse costs around €12.90. The journey takes just under an hour and offers a relaxing alternative to navigating busy roads.
You can check current schedules and prices on the Zou! Train website.
💡 TopTip: From Grasse train station, it’s a 10-minute bus ride or 15- 30-minute uphill walk to the Old Town (depending on how fit you are). Take the local bus if you’d rather skip the climb, it costs €1.50. Ask for bus lines going to Fragonard Centre Ville.
🚘 By Car
Driving to Grasse gives you more flexibility, especially if you’re planning to explore nearby hilltop villages, lavender fields, or perfume workshops off the beaten path. It’s an ideal option for couples or families looking to get beyond the main tourist trail.
- From Nice to Grasse: ~40 minutes by car
- From Cannes to Grasse: ~25 minutes
I recommend parking at Honoré Cresp (Indigo Parking) — located right in the centre, just opposite Fragonard. It’s perfectly positioned for exploring the Old Town, museums, and cafés without a long uphill walk.
🚗 Parking in summer can be competitive — aim to arrive before 11 a.m. or after 4 p.m. for the best spots.
💡 Top Tip: Car parks in France are notoriously tight — and Honoré Cresp is no exception. I always head straight to the bottom level, where there are usually more spaces available than on the upper floors. It’s less chaotic, and worth the extra loop down.
What Is Grasse Known For?
Grasse is best known as the world’s perfume capital — and for good reason. The region has been at the heart of French fragrance production since the 17th century, when local tanneries began scenting leather gloves to mask the smell of the tanning process. Over time, this evolved into a world-class perfume industry that still thrives today.
The surrounding hills are ideal for growing delicate flowers like jasmine, rose, tuberose, and lavender — many of which are still harvested locally and used in iconic fragrances, including Chanel No. 5.
🏡 A personal detail: the house I own just outside Grasse is several hundred years old and once belonged to the perfume house Fragonard. It was the home of their jasmine gardener, and I like to think there are still a few secrets from the fields tucked into the walls.
But Grasse isn’t just about perfume. It’s also known for its pastel-painted Old Town, with sweeping views across the Riviera. The atmosphere here feels more lived-in than the polished coastal resorts — an authentic Provençal charm with fewer crowds and more soul.
In recent years, the city council has invested millions into restoring the façades of the Old Town — reviving that soft, Riviera colour palette that visitors love. In summer, hundreds of pink umbrellas are suspended above the streets, offering shade and creating a splash of colour that transforms the centre into a vibrant, Instagram-ready postcard.
Grasse is a place of contrasts: artisan boutiques and gritty alleyways, jasmine fields and sun-washed stone. If you’re looking for somewhere with heart — and just a little edge — this hillside town might be exactly what you’re after.
Top Things To Do In Grasse
There are plenty of things to do in Grasse — especially if you’re interested in fragrance, history, and a more authentic take on the French Riviera. While much of the information online is in French, I’ve done the hard work for you. Here are my top recommendations to make the most of your visit to this fragrant hillside town.
1. Explore the International Perfume Museum (Musée International de la Parfumerie)
This is the flagship museum of Grasse, and a must for anyone curious about the history and culture of scent. The exhibits trace perfume’s journey from ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia, through medieval France, and into the age of modern fragrance giants.
Expect ancient vials, fascinating scent rituals, and interactive displays that explain how perfume became such a key part of French heritage.
- 💶 Entry: €6
- 🕰️ Allow 1–1.5 hours
- 📍 Location: In the centre of Grasse’s Old Town (close to Fragonard)
2. Wander the Perfume Gardens (MIP Gardens in Mouans-Sartoux)
A short drive from the centre of Grasse, you’ll find the Jardins du MIP — the open-air extension of the museum, located in Mouans-Sartoux. Spread across two hectares, these gardens showcase the region’s key perfume plants: jasmine, orange blossom, rose, tuberose, lavender, and more.
They’re not overly manicured, which I actually love — it feels wild and real, with scents wafting through the air as you wander.
🌸 If you’re visiting in May–July, expect the flowers to be at their best — especially jasmine and rose.
🎟️ Entry to the gardens is €4.
3. Stroll Through the Streets of Old Grasse
The narrow, winding lanes of the Old Town in Grasse feel like something from another time. Expect sun-washed façades in ochre and pink, tiny boutiques, and the occasional waft of perfume from the many fragrance houses and shops.
Start your walk at the International Perfume Museum and wander downhill into the heart of the old town. In summer, rows of pink umbrellas suspended above the streets create both shade and a sense of magic.
📸 Perfect for a slow, camera-in-hand wander — no rush, just scents and sunlight.
4. Step Inside the Cathedral of Grasse
Don’t miss the Cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Puy, originally built in the 13th century in stunning Romanesque style. It’s no longer a cathedral in the official sense, but its peaceful interior, vaulted ceilings, and air of quiet dignity make it one of my favourite places to pause and reflect.
Although I’m not religious, I always light a candle here — a small moment to think about people in my life.
📸 Photography Tip: Behind the cathedral, there’s also a lovely viewpoint that looks out over Grasse, the old perfume factories, and all the way down to the Mediterranean. I can even spot my house from here.
5. Discover the Place aux Aires and Fragonard’s Shops
Place aux Aires is the main square in Old Grasse — home to restaurants, fountains, and several branches of Fragonard, the town’s most famous perfume house.
Fragonard offers more than fragrance: their shops are filled with gorgeous homewares, textiles, soaps, and souvenirs — many of which I have in my own home (which, fittingly, once belonged to Fragonard).
🎁 Looking for a high-quality souvenir? Fragonard is the spot. Their packaging alone is worth the visit.
6. Create Your Own Perfume at Fragonard
Of the three major perfume houses in Grasse, Fragonard is my personal favourite — not least because I live in one of their former properties! They offer multiple ways to experience the world of fragrance, from guided tours to hands-on workshops.
🌸 Take a Free Factory Tour
Fragonard offers free guided tours at both of their Grasse locations:
- The Historic Factory in the centre of town
- The Flower Factory on the outskirts (ideal if you’re arriving by car)
⏰ Tours run every 30 minutes in multiple languages — including English, French, German, Spanish, and Italian — and typically last around 30 minutes. It’s a quick, fascinating glimpse behind the scenes of perfume-making, perfect for all ages.
🌼 Make Your Own Perfume
For something a little more hands-on, Fragonard’s “Create Your Own Perfume” workshops are a real highlight. Under expert guidance, you’ll mix your own Eau de Toilette and learn the basics of scent composition. It’s a particularly fun activity for families, friends, or teens.
💡 Top Tip: Workshops fill up fast — advance booking is recommended. Fragonard also offers them in Cannes, Èze, and in their Paris boutique.
7. Ride Le Petit Train de Grasse
If you’re travelling with children, older guests, or just prefer to sit back and enjoy the scenery, the Petit Train de Grasseis a fun and easy way to explore the Old Town.
This 35-minute narrated tour winds through Grasse’s narrow streets, passing key landmarks including the Fragonard perfume factory, the Musée International de la Parfumerie, and the Cathedral of Grasse. It’s a great way to get your bearings — especially at the beginning of your visit.
🚂 Departure point: Cours Honoré Cresp, just above the main car park and opposite Fragonard
💶 Price: ~€6.50 for adults (at time of writing)
🕰️ Duration: Approx. 35 minutes
🎧 Audio commentary is available in multiple languages, making it accessible for international visitors.
8. Marvel at the Views from the Hilltop Village of Gourdon
Just 20 minutes from Grasse, the hilltop village of Gourdon is one of the most breathtaking spots in the Alpes-Maritimes — and a personal favourite of mine, all year round.
Perched dramatically above the Gorges du Loup, this tiny village offers sweeping views across the entire Côte d’Azur. It’s much quieter than the better-known Saint-Paul de Vence, and that’s part of its charm.
I often come here to walk my dogs, cycle the gorge roads below, or enjoy lunch at La Taverne Provençale on a sunny terrace. On clear days, you can see all the way to Corsica!
👑 Historical Fact: Queen Victoria once stayed at the château here on one of her Riviera visits — look for the plaque on the castle door. The village also featured in the opening scenes of Les Misérables with Hugh Jackman.
🥾 Favourite Hikes Around Gourdon:
Chemin du Paradis (Path to Paradise):
A challenging but rewarding hike starting at the Florian Confiserie in Le Bar-sur-Loup. This steep trail climbs all the way to Gourdon — once the original walking route into the village.
Gourdon Ridge Trail:
Park on the road to Caussols (2 km beyond Gourdon, just after the U-bend). From there, a scenic 1-hour loop trail circles the ridge above the village — with unbeatable views.
🎒 Bring water, sun protection, and decent footwear — the terrain is rocky, but the scenery is unforgettable.
9. Cook Like Julia Child at La Pitchoune in Plascassier
Just outside Grasse in the peaceful village of Plascassier (where I live), you’ll find La Pitchoune — the former home of legendary American chef Julia Child. Built in the 1960s with her husband Paul, this charming countryside retreat was where she perfected many of the recipes in Mastering the Art of French Cooking.
Today, La Pitchoune is home to a boutique cooking school run by an American couple who have lovingly preserved the spirit of the home. They offer week-long culinary retreats that blend hands-on French cooking with Provençal living — including wine tastings, market visits, and time to unwind in the garden.
- 🧑🍳 Courses start at around $6,000/week, including accommodation
- 📍 Located in Plascassier / Châteauneuf-Grasse
- 🌐 Learn more at La Pitchoune Cooking School
🍷 If you’re looking for a truly immersive, once-in-a-lifetime experience in the footsteps of Julia herself — this is it.
Where To Stay In Grasse
Grasse offers accommodation for every budget, but if you’re looking for charm, views, and that true Provençal vibe, consider staying just outside the centre. Personally, I recommend basing yourself in one of the surrounding villages and travelling in for sightseeing. Here are my top picks:
🛏️ Luxury Grasse – La Bastide Saint Antoine
If you’re looking for a taste of luxury, La Bastide Saint Antoine is a Provençal dream. Think manicured gardens, elegant rooms (choose Provençal over contemporary if you want the full charm), and its own Michelin-starred restaurant on site.
💎 Perfect for romantic getaways or special celebrations.
🛏️ Central Grasse – Airbnb in the Historic District
High-end hotels in the Old Town are limited, but there’s an abundance of Airbnb apartments — many with incredible views over the rooftops and out to the sea.
💡 Top Tip: Look for listings labelled “Grasse Historic Centre” or “Heart of Old Grasse.”
⚠️ Choose a property with a balcony or terrace. In July and August, air conditioning is a must.
🛏️ A Peaceful Escape: Hotel du Clos – Le Rouret
Just 5km from Grasse, Hotel du Clos is a peaceful boutique retreat surrounded by gardens and Provençal charm. I stayed here myself when moving house, and loved the quiet atmosphere and shady poolside loungers.
🌿 A great option if you want calm countryside vibes with easy access to Grasse.
Plan Your Trip With
My Favourite Resources
– Best Accommodation – Booking.com
– Best Tours & Experiences – Viator.com
– Best Travel Insurance – EktaTravelling.com
– Best Car Hire – AutoEurope.com
🍽️ Best Restaurants in and Around Grasse
Grasse has a handful of gems in the town centre, particularly around Place aux Aires, but my favourite spots lie just beyond the old town. These are local-approved, flavour-filled, and full of character.
🍽️ Bistro Lougolin – Plascassier (my local)
Just 1 km from my home, Lougolin has stunning views over the Riviera and a great terrace for year-round dining. The menu is modern Provençal, the set menus are excellent value, and the atmosphere is always relaxed.
💻 Bookings can be made online by clicking here.
🍽️ La Taverne Provençale – Gourdon
A classic Provençal bistro perched beside the old church in Gourdon. Their goat’s cheese salad is legendary (seriously — it’s the best I’ve had in France). Great for lunch after sightseeing or hiking.
📱 Reserve by phone: +33 4 93 09 68 22
⏰ Open daily in summer (closed Tuesdays off-season). Crepes and drinks served into late afternoon.
⚠️ Advance booking at weekends is recommended.
🍽️ Cuisiner ses Rêves sous les Étoiles – Gourdon
A romantic, off-grid experience in a mountain garden. This family-run summer pop-up is part food truck, part fairy tale. Tables are nestled beneath the trees, the food is fresh and local, and yes — I’ve even had a deer wander past mid-meal.
📧 Email Claire to book. (Use Google Translate to mail in French). Claire is very responsive and usually replies within the hour.
✨ Expect a handwritten menu, big Provençal skies and magic on summer nights.
FAQs
Is Grasse, France worth visiting?
Absolutely. Grasse has undergone a remarkable transformation in the last decade, regaining the pastel charm and vibrancy it’s known for. If you’re exploring the French Riviera, Grasse deserves a spot on your itinerary — especially if you’re interested in perfume, hilltop villages, or off-the-beaten-path experiences.
How many days in Grasse?
A day trip is enough to see the main sights in Grasse. However, staying longer in the Pays de Grasse makes a great base for exploring the Côte d’Azur — with Cannes, Antibes, and local villages just 20–30 minutes away.
Can you visit flower fields in Grasse?
Yes. The Gardens of the International Perfume Museum in Mouans Sartoux showcase the region’s iconic blooms — jasmine, rose, lavender, and orange blossom. It’s a fragrant, peaceful experience, especially in spring and summer.
Yes, the gardens of the Musée Internationale de la Parfumerie are located in nearby Mouans Sartoux. These are not as grand as the lavender fields of Provence, nevertheless they are a beautiful, sensory experience.
Is Grasse walkable?
Grasse’s Old Town is compact and easily explored on foot, but do be prepared for some steep streets and stone staircases. Wear comfortable shoes and allow time to wander slowly.
The Wrap Up – Is Grasse Worth Visiting?
Grasse might not be the first town people fall in love with on the French Riviera, and I understand why. For a long time, it struggled. But things are changing, and if you’ve written it off in the past, it might just be time to give it another look.
Whether you’re curious about perfume, enjoy getting lost in colourful alleyways, or just want a different view of the Côte d’Azur, Grasse offers something quieter and more soulful than the coastal crowds. It may not be perfect, but that’s part of its charm – and from where I sit, it’s getting better all the time.
Planning a visit? Feel free to explore my guides to Antibes beaches or the Cap d’Antibes hike these are perfect pairings with a half-day in Grasse.
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Written by Richard Hoskisson
Founder of The Cosmos Traveller
With over 30 years of travel experience across France, South Africa, the UAE and Greece – and many more far flung places – Richard helps curious travellers explore hidden gems, discover culturally-rich adventures and enrich their travel stories.
Published July 2024 – Updated – July 2025