Large sign spelling 'GRASSE' with a floral decoration on the 'G', set against a backdrop of blue skies, mountains, and greenery in Grasse, France

Grasse France Guide: Things To Do, Where To Stay + More 2024

By Richard Hoskisson – 2 July 2024

Nestled in the hills between the Alps and the Mediterranean is the beautiful, colourful town of Grasse. The ‘Pays de Grasse’ is where I live in France. Residing in one of its satellite villages, ‘Plascassier’ (famous for being home to Edith Piaf and Julia Childs), I too, have fallen under its charm. Grasse is a beautiful city and I am reminded of its beauty when I see it from my garden every day.

The city of Grasse is a hidden gem that has undergone a transformation in the last decade. Known as the ‘City of Perfumes’, it is the birth place of the perfume industry in France. When you visit you will discover the rich beauty of Grasse and its surrounding villages that has captivated the hearts of visitors for centuries.



Top Things To Do In Grasse

There are a variety of things to do and see in Grasse. Whilst much of the information available online about Grasse is in French, I have done the hard work for you and outlined below my top 5 recommendations for a memorable visit to this beautiful area of France.


1. Visit the Musée Internationale de la Parfumerie (The International Museum of Perfume)

An ornate orange building with a decorative iron balcony is the home of the International Museum of Perfume in Grasse.

The Main Museum

This large museum showcases everything to do with perfume from ancient to modern times. Explore the importance that perfume had in ancient times, through the Middle Ages and all the way up to the creation of the large perfume houses that we know today.

Entry to the museum is €6.

The Gardens (also referred to as MIP)

Rows of purple lavenders are growing in this lavender field at the Gardens of the International Museum of Perfume.

On a nearby site in Mouans Sartoux, one can visit the gardens of the Musée Internationale de la Parfumerie. Spread over 2 hectares, immerse yourself in the rich fragrances and beautiful blooms of the flowers. Whilst the gardens are a little ‘wild’ you can enjoy wandering amongst the jasmines, orange blossoms, geraniums and the fragrant lavenders for which the region is so famous.

Entry to the gardens is €4.


2. Stroll Through the Streets of Old Grasse

Pink umbrellas hang above a narrow Grasse street lined with buildings in many shades of yellow and orange.

The narrow, winding streets of Grasse truly immerse you into this medieval town. Discover the squares, chapels and boutiques of the vibrant old town.

I recommend starting from the Musée Internationale de la Parfumerie and heading down into the Old Town through the cobbled streets. In summer time the suspended pink umbrellas create a unique ambiance and provide much needed shade.

Make sure to visit the cathedral – Cathédrale de Notre-Dame-du-Puy. Now officially a church, the structure dates to the 13th century and is in the magnificent Romanesque style. Spend some time inside and reflect. Although I am not religious, I find this a particularly tranquil space to spend time, light and candle and think about those that are important to me.

A large stone bell tower beneath a deep blue sky.
An intricate stone vaulted ceiling rises inside the cathedral of Grasse.

Behind the cathedral is a great viewpoint looking out over the old factories of Grasse down the valley and towards the Mediterranean coast. I can actually spot my own house in the distance from up here, which is always a thrill.

2 rows of pink umbrellas disappear into the distance of the tree lined square.

Relax at the Place aux Aires which is the central square in the old town. There are some restaurants and perfume shops here. I strongly recommend visiting the multiple shops of Fragonard. They offer beautiful gift ideas, from perfumes to home furnishings and clothes. I have many of their items in my home (which actually belonged to Fragonard many years ago). You will be sure to find a high quality souvenir here to remind you of your visit.


3. Create Your Own Perfume at the Fragonard Perfume Factory

A yellow building with rows of windows with pale shutters if the home of the Parfumerie Fragonard.

Of the three main perfume houses in Grasse, Fragonard is my favourite. There are multiple activities that you can do at Fragonard.

🌸 Free Factory Guided Tour – Available in both their locations in Grasse (at the Historic Factory House in central Grasse, and at the Factory of Flowers House on the outskirts of Grasse) these tours usually depart around every 30 minutes and are available in multiple languages – French, English, German, Spanish, Italian. The tour last around 30 minutes.

🌼 Create your Own Perfume Workshop – Discover trade secrets and become the master of your unique Eau de Toilette. This is a great activity to do in a group. Last year I sent some guests here with their teenagers and they had such fun. Advance booking is recommended.
Fragonard also offer these workshops in Cannes, Eze and Paris.

🎁 Stock up on gifts for those back home at the Fragonard boutiques in Grasse. There are perfume shops located at the factory in Grasse, but venture further into the old town of Grasse to discover their home furnishings and clothing stores. They are packed full of items you will want to take back home!

A store called Fragonard Maison is located on the corner of a street lined with pink umbrellas.

4. Ride Le Petit Train de Grasse

This tour is great for those with limited mobility or if you are visiting with children. This 35 minute tour of Grasse winds through the streets of old Grasse taking in all the main sights.

The train departs from the square above the car park Cours Honoré de Cresp and directly opposite the Fragonard factory, close to the Musée Internationale.

Prices at the time of writing are approximately €6.50 for adults.


5. Marvel at Breathtaking Views from the Hilltop Village of Gourdon

The sun rises dramatically above the sea. A tree and a balcony overlooks the valley below.

Gourdon is my ‘go to place’ all year round. I love walking my dogs up here in the hills, cycling in the gorges and valleys below and having lunch at La Taverne Provençal on lazy summer afternoons.

Perched on a hilltop above the Gorges du Loup, this cute little village is a quiet alternative to the busier and more touristy neighbour of St Paul de Vence. The views are spectacular across the whole of the Côte d’Azur.

A staircase leads down to a dramatic view of mountains in the distance.
A green valley meanders towards the sea.

Queen Victoria once stayed at the château here on one of her many visits to the French Riviera – see if you can find the plaque commemorating this on the door of the castle. More recently the opening scenes of the movie Les Misérables, featuring Hugh Jackman were filmed here.

🥾 There are multiple hiking trails in the area. A favourite of mine is the ‘Chemin du Paradis’ (Path to Paradise). With a starting point in the valley below at the Florian Factory at Le Port du Loup, this challenging ascent to the village is a spectacular way to discover how the village would have been reached on foot long ago.

🥾 Other trails can be found on the road from Gourdon to Cassouls. The ridge looming over the village is a nice hour-long circuitous hike starting 2km up the road to Caussols from Gourdon. (After the U bend – the parking is a few hundred metres further on the right).


6. Enrol on a Cooking Course at the Julia Childs School – La Pitchoune – Plascassier/Châteauneuf de Grasse

Renowned American chef and author of ‘Mastering the Art of French Cooking’, Julia Childs built her home, ‘La Peetch‘, in Plascassier (commune of Grasse) in the 1960s. With her husband, Paul, she spent much time here in the proceeding decades.

The house is now under the ownership of an American couple who facilitate week-long cooking courses throughout the year. Accommodation is included onsite and this is an opportunity to truly immerse yourself in the cuisine of France and the French way of life.

Courses begin at around $6000 per week for their summer camps.

Further information can be found at the website of La Pitchoune.


Where To Stay In Grasse

There is a wide range of accommodation in Grasse catering to all budgets. My personal preference is to stay in one of the nearby villages/communes of Grasse and to travel in for sightseeing. However, I have included three options below, Luxury Grasse, Central Grasse and A Little Further Afield.

🛏️ Luxury Grasse – La Bastide Saint Antoine

La Bastide Saint Antoine is a Provençal delight with its very own Michelin Starred restaurant. There is a choice of staying in rooms with a contemporary touch, or, if you prefer, choose a Provençal style room (my preferred type of room).


🛏️ Central Grasse

It is more difficult to recommend a hotel in Central Grasse as there are so few of the quality I am happy to recommend to you. However, there are an abundance of Airbnb properties available for rent, which is my personal preference.

Look for an Airbnb in the Old Grasse district – often referred to as ‘in the heart of Grasse’, ‘Grasse old district’ or ‘historic centre’. You will easily find a chic attic apartment with panoramic views over the city and towards the Mediterranean coast at a reasonable price.

💡 Insider Tip – Look for a property with a balcony/terrace and if staying in July/August make sure that there is air conditioning.


🛏️ A Little Further Afield – Hotel du Clos – Le Rouret

A stone building of 3 floors with purple shutters. Tables and chairs are laid out under a shade canopy.

About 5km away from central Grasse you will find Hotel du Clos. This small boutique hotel is a peaceful retreat. (I actually stayed here when I sold my house last year for a few nights before the new house was ready).

With beautiful gardens, a lovely pool and typical Provençal touches, this truly offers good value for money, within easy reach of Grasse.


Best Grasse Restaurants

Grasse has some good eateries in the town centre. Try one of the restaurants in the Place aux Aires if staying in Grasse. However, for me, the better places can be found a little further afield, yet still within the ‘Pays de Grasse’. I have listed my favourites below.

🍽️ Bistro Lougolin – Plascassier

This is my local restaurant (I live about 1km away on the same road as Lougolin). With a beautiful terrace and views towards the Mediterranean coast this is a year round favourite.

Having undergone a renovation for the 2024 season, Lougolin continues to offer an à la carte menu that is pleasing. The set menus are great value for money. For lunch or dinner, reservations are advised.

💻 Bookings can be made online by clicking here.


🍽️ La Taverne Provençale – Gourdon

A stone provençal building neighbours a small church. Tables and chairs are laid out in the restaurant between the two.

My favourite – have lunch at La Taverne Provençale – they serve the best Hot Goat’s Cheese Salad (Salade de Chèvre Chaud) you will ever have in France and the views from the restaurant are spectacular.

⏰ Open daily in high season for lunch up to 2:30/3pm. Crepes and drinks are served up to 5/6pm. Closed on Tuesdays during low-season.

📱 Reserve by phone (+33) 04 93 09 68 22.

Advance booking at weekends is recommended.


🍽️ Cuisiner ses Rêves sous les Étoiles – Gourdon

Tables and chairs are laid out beneath shade canopies in a mountain garden.

Translated at ‘Cooking Your Dreams Under the Stars’ this is a wonderfully unique experience and well and truly ‘off the beaten track’. Open mainly in the summer season. This is a family-run restaurant operating out of a food truck with tables romantically set in the gardens of their mountain home.

Claire, the owner is so accommodating and the food is great value; freshly prepared local dishes. The menu changes regularly.

This is a real treat on hot summer evenings. In fact two summers ago, whilst dining there, a deer meandered past our table. It was magical.

💻 Send an email to book by clicking here. (Use Google Translate to mail in French). Claire is very responsive and usually replies within the hour.


Getting Around

🚊 – A direct train line links Grasse to Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Monaco and Ventigmilia (Italy). If staying in one of these larger cities, it is possible to get the train to Grasse and explore the central attractions.

🚘 – My recommendation is to hire a car to explore the area. There is so much beauty to see and some attractions are located outside of the town centre. Access to a car makes exploration much easier.

🅿️ – For Central Grasse use the car park at (Indigo) Grasse Honoré Cresp. This is most conveniently located for the Perfume Museum, Fragonard and the old town of Grasse.


FAQs

Is Grasse, France worth visiting?

100% yes. The French Riviera has so much to offer and Grasse should definitely be on your list for a visit as part of your tour. Do not be put off by the reputation of Grasse from years ago, it has undergone a transformation in the last decade to regain its beautiful charm.

How many days in Grasse?

A day trip to Grasse is sufficient to see the main sights. However, I do recommend the area (Pays de Grasse) as a great place to stay to further explore the Côte d’Azur – towns with wonderful beaches such as Antibes and Cannes are 25 minutes away.

Can you visit flower fields in Grasse?

Yes, the gardens of the Musée Internationale de la Parfumerie are located in nearby Mouans Sartoux. These are not as grand as the lavender fields of Provence, nevertheless they are a beautiful, sensory experience.

Is Grasse walkable?

The old town of Grasse is walkable, but note that there are some steep roads and steps.


The Wrap Up

As a local resident, I can honestly say that there is plenty to see and experience in Grasse and the ‘Pays de Grasse’. To discover the perfume capital of France, explore old town charm or find spectacular vistas, use my guide to plan your visit here.