Best Places to Stay in Crete for a Local Experience
I’ve travelled to Crete extensively — both as a child in the 80s and 90s, when the major resorts were still just sleepy towns, and more recently as an adult rediscovering the island’s quieter side. Over the past few years, I’ve fallen in love with Crete all over again – especially the charm you find off the beaten path.
If you’re wondering where to stay in Crete for a more authentic, beautiful experience and want to skip the overly touristy spots, this guide is for you.
I’ve explored the island several times and personally stayed in every village and town listed here – from seaside spots that still feel undiscovered to mountain hamlets with hidden-gem tavernas, where raki and a slower pace of life are part of the appeal.
This isn’t a list of big resorts or generic reviews — just my favourite places to stay in Crete if you’re looking to go beyond the resorts and find the real Crete.
🧭 Quick Glance – My Favourite Places to Stay in Crete
📍 Chania Old Town – charming, walkable, perfect for 1–2 nights
🏞 Chora Sfakion – peaceful village base for hiking and beaches
🌊 Loutro – remote, no roads, just sea and stillness
🏖 Agia Roumeli – gorge-side stillness once ferries leave
🧘♀️ Sougia – low-key, laid-back, beach town charm
🏖 Paleochora – variety, buzz, and beach access
🌅 Elafonisi – magical at sunrise/sunset (stay overnight!)
⛱ Plakias – base for southern beach adventures
🪨 Matala – Red Beach, Kommos, and that iconic cliff view
⛵️ Plaka (Lasithi) – Spinalonga views, great food
🌿 Monastiraki – tiny hill village with unforgettable food
Why Skip the Resorts? What ‘Local Experience’ Really Means in Crete
It really is possible to be in Greece in July or August and still find places in Crete that aren’t packed — where the beaches are quiet, the food is simple and good, and the pace of life is slower. You just have to know where to go.
If you’re looking for something more authentic, you’ll want to skip most of the big resorts on the north coast. That said, I do think Chania makes a great base for a night or two. It’s charming, lively, and has a strong local feel despite being popular.
For me, a local experience means eating in small tavernas where the menus might only be in Greek, or where Cretans are clearly the main crowd. It’s sitting by the sea with a plate of grilled fish and a glass of wine, and ending the meal with a complimentary raki that tastes home-made — because it probably is.
Just you, the sea, and a dish of pistachio-crusted feta in a quiet Cretan taverna. This is the Greece I come back for.
The Cosmos Traveller
This guide is about those kinds of places — where Crete still feels like Crete.
Best Villages to Stay in Crete for a Local Experience
If you have read my post on ‘Hidden Beaches in Crete‘ you will know that the island is divided into 4 Regional Units – each one stretching from the busy north coast to the quieter southern shores.
From west to east they are:
- Chania
- Reythmno
- Heraklion
- Lasithi
The places in this list are spread across all four regions, so whether you’re planning a road trip or a relaxed stay in one area, you’ll find options to suit. Each destination can stand on its own — or be part of a longer adventure across Crete. For me the coastal towns of South Crete are unbeatable.
Chania Region
Chania City – Charm, Character, and Easy Arrival
🧭 Overview
Chania is always my starting point, mainly because it’s the only place I can fly to directly from Nice. But honestly, I wouldn’t have it any other way.
When I first visited in 1981, Chania was a sleepy fishing town with a harbour lined with working boats and not much else. Today, it’s busier, yes, but it has evolved with care. Many of the old town’s beautiful Venetian buildings have been restored, the harbour glows at sunset, and it still retains that classic Greek charm.
💙 Why I Love It
Chania has just the right energy for the start of your trip. It’s atmospheric, walkable, and packed with great food and character. There’s a little bit of everything here — without the resort feel.
That said, I recommend just 1–2 nights. It’s a lovely place to start your trip, but after a week or so on the quieter southern coast, returning here at the end can feel a bit too hectic (as I experienced in June 2025).
🛏 Where to Stay
If you can, splurge on a stay right on the harbour, or at least within the Old Town. Waking up to views of the lighthouse and watching the evening light on the water is something special.
My personal recommendation is Elia Zampeliou Hotel. I’ve stayed here twice — most recently with my parents — and will happily stay again in the future.
💡 Insider Tip: Book the Superior Room with Sea View. It’s cheaper than the balcony room, but it’s located on the top floor right next to a large shared terrace overlooking the harbour — which, in my experience, is rarely used by other guests.
🛏 Browse more hotels in Chania Old Town on Booking.com
💡 Bonus Tip: Look for places in the Venetian Harbour, Splantzia, or Topanas neighbourhoods for the best atmosphere and charm.
Perfect For
- Starting or ending your Crete trip
- Travellers who enjoy a mix of culture, food, and history
- Short stays before heading south or inland
Chora Sfakion – Small, Scenic, and Surprisingly Addictive
🧭 Overview
I first passed through Chora Sfakion (also referred to as Chora/Hora Sfakia) in 1988 after hiking the Samaria Gorge for the first time. When I returned in 2024, I fell in love with it instantly.
This is a small, intimate village perched above a quiet harbour on Crete’s southern coast. It’s often used as a stopping point for hikers — either at the end of the Samaria Gorge or the start of the Imbros Gorge — but it deserves more than a passing visit.
The village is known for its fiercely proud locals (with their famously piercing blue eyes — a sign of a true Chora Sfakion), and for offering a sense of peace that’s hard to find elsewhere.
💙 Why I Love It
At night, the village is vibrant without being crowded. There are no clubs or noisy bars — just the sound of the sea and the clinking of glasses from low-key tavernas. It’s relaxed, honest, and gently addictive.
It’s also the perfect base to explore the rugged southern coastline. From here, you can reach Agia Roumeli by boat or hike to Glyka Nera, probably my favourite beach in Crete — wild, beautiful, and often empty.
This is the kind of place people return to for decades. I met travellers who’ve been coming back for 30 years… and were kind enough to let me in on the secret.
🛏 Where to Stay
My top recommendation is The Authentic Village Boutique Hotel – a stylish, upmarket stay with modern interiors and a warm Greek welcome.
💡 Insider Tip: Choose the Double Room with Balcony for more outdoor terrace space and lovely views.
For something more modest but with full harbour views, try Samaria by the Sea or Livikon by the Sea. These are essentially two buildings of the hotel connected and run together.
💡 Top Tip: If you prefer a little more privacy, book a room in the Livikon section — the Samaria balconies are more exposed to foot traffic and village noise.
🛏 Browse all stays in Chora Sfakion on Booking.com
Perfect For
- Hikers looking to rest after Samaria or start Imbros
- Beach lovers wanting access to Glyka Nera and remote coves
- Travellers craving local character without crowds
- Those (like me) who prefer quiet nights and early mornings
Loutro – Hidden Away and Only Accessible by Sea
🧭 Overview
Loutro is one of Crete’s most magical spots — a tiny, whitewashed village nestled in a sheltered bay on the south coast, only accessible by boat or on foot from Chora Sfakion. There are no roads, no cars, and no big hotels — just stillness, sea, and the gentle hum of a slower pace of life.
Even in peak season, it feels like a secret. A quiet pocket of Greece that somehow escaped mass tourism.
💙 Why I Love It
The swimming here is blissful. The water in the bay is calm, clear, and the kind of brilliant blue that seems to glow from within. It’s so inviting you’ll find yourself diving in again and again, before breakfast, after lunch, and just before sunset.
Everything in Loutro moves at half-speed — and that’s the charm. You come here to unwind, read a book, float in the sea, and watch the sunlight play on the cliffs.
🛏 Where to Stay
I recommend Hotel Porto Loutro on the Beach – a lovely spot with unforgettable views, run by Alison, who first came here in the 1970s from London, met her husband, built the hotel, and never left. It has the relaxed, lived-in feel of somewhere shaped by love and time.
Another more recent addition is Loutro Molos Apartments, with generous balconies and sweeping views across the bay. I’ll be staying here for five nights in early September, and I can’t wait to experience it first-hand.
🛏 Browse all stays in Loutro on Booking.com
💡 Top Tip: Book early – good quality sea-facing rooms go quickly, especially in peak season.
✨ Perfect For
- Travellers who want total escape (no roads, no cars)
- Swimmers and sea lovers — the water is divine
- Couples or solo travellers seeking peace and beauty
- Doing absolutely nothing in the best possible way
Agia Roumeli – Stay Behind and Discover the Stillness
🧭 Overview
Agia Roumeli is a remote coastal village on Crete’s south coast, nestled between the Libyan Sea and the steep cliffs of the Samaria Gorge. There are no roads in or out — the only way to arrive is by boat or on foot, through the 16km Samaria Gorge hike.
Most visitors only pass through, but those who stay longer discover something really special. If you’re looking for the Crete away from the tourists, then once the boats leave late afternoon, this is it, until the next wave of hikers start to arrive early afternoon the following day!
💙 Why I Love It
When the last ferries leave in the late afternoon — carrying the tired hikers back to Chora Sfakion or Sougia – the entire village shifts. It becomes quiet, peaceful, and somehow more alive. Locals return to the tavernas, the sea calms, and there’s a sense that the day is just beginning again.
The swimming here is spectacular. The beach is wide and uncrowded, and the water is a deep, clear blue that’s impossible to resist.
There’s no nightlife, no crowds — just the sound of the sea, the clink of glasses, and a sky full of stars.
No roads in or out. Just you, the sea, and quiet evenings under the stars.
🛏 Where to Stay
There are several great-value rooms and apartments right by the sea, often with balconies and incredible views. While I haven’t stayed overnight here yet, I’ve spent time in the village after the last boats left — and it made me wish I had booked a night (or two).
On my radar for next time:
- Hotel Agia Roumeli By The Sea – friendly, family-run, and just steps from the beach
- Calypso – simple, quiet, and right on the beach for tranquil views.
🛏 Browse stays in Agia Roumeli on Booking.com (search on the map function to find all the accommodation in Agia Roumeli)
💡 Top Tip: Stay overnight to experience the village after the crowds leave – it’s a completely different place.
✨ Perfect For
- Recovering after hiking the Samaria Gorge
- Swimmers and sea lovers
- Travellers looking for peace and simplicity
- A quiet, soul-soothing night with no distractions
Sougia – Rustic Charm and Laid-Back Beach Vibes
🧭 Overview
Tucked along Crete’s remote southern coast, Sougia is a relaxed little village with a wide, pebbly beach, rustic tavernas, and the kind of place where time seems to slow down. It’s not flashy or fancy — and that’s exactly the appeal.
You’ll find familiar faces each morning at the same coffee shop, and by your second day, you might already feel like a local. It’s one of those places that quietly wins people over.
💙 Why I Love It
Sougia has a peaceful rhythm — long, lazy beach days, meals right by the sea with your toes in the sand, and nights under a sky full of stars. Even in summer, it rarely feels crowded, and there’s a simplicity to life here that’s hard to resist.
You come for the beach, stay for the quiet, and return for the atmosphere.
🛏 Where to Stay
I recommend Santa Irene — I’ve stayed here twice and would absolutely return. It’s simple, clean, well-located, and inexpensive, which is exactly what you want in Sougia.
For a real treat try the Monastery Estate Retreat.
🛏 Browse more places to stay in Sougia on Booking.com
💡 Top Tip: Most accommodation is just a few minutes’ walk from the beach — but book early for August if you want your pick.
✨ Perfect For
- Laid-back travellers who love a rustic vibe
- Beach lovers who want space without crowds
- Returning visitors looking for somewhere low-key
- Long lunches, quiet swims, and familiar faces
Paleochora – Beaches, Buzz, and a Laid-Back Town Feel
🧭 Overview
Set on a peninsula on Crete’s southern coast, Paleochora is often called the “Bride of the Libyan Sea” — and it’s easy to see why. With beaches on both sides of town, a lively but friendly atmosphere, and a slower pace than the big resort towns, it’s the perfect base for a few days (or more).
I’ll be staying here in August, and it’s already earned a spot on this list — thanks to its unique mix of walkable town life, variety of beaches, and plenty of local charm.
👀 Why I’m Looking forward to It
Paleochora is one of the few places along the south coast between Matala and Elafonisi that I haven’t visited — which makes it all the more intriguing. With its mix of beaches, a proper town feel, and strong local following, it’s the kind of place I’ve heard people return to again and again.
It seems to offer the best of both worlds: peaceful by day, lively in the evenings, with enough cafés, tavernas, and shops to feel lived-in – not touristy. I’ll be sure to report back!
🛏 Where to Stay
I’ll be staying at Meli Apartments during my trip in August — a small, well-rated spot that offers simple, modern apartments close to both the beach and the town centre. It looks like the kind of place that gets the balance right: well-located, unfussy, and good value.
If you’re looking for other options, Paleochora has plenty — from friendly family-run pensions to boutique-style stays.
- Aris Boutique Hotel– known for its gardens, artistic design, and warm welcome
- Pietra Di Sabbia Villas – stylish and centrally located, with strong reviews and beautiful swimming pools.
🛏 Browse more places to stay in Paleochora on Booking.com
💡 Top Tip: Places book out fast in summer, especially with returning guests — so don’t wait too long to lock something in.
✨ Perfect For
- A mix of beach time and small-town buzz
- Access to both organised and wild beaches
- Exploring southern Crete without feeling isolated
- Travellers who like variety without the crowds
Elafonisi – A Wild Card Stay for Sunrise, Sunset and Solitude (Yes, Really!)
🧭 Overview
Let’s be honest — Elafonisi Beach is stunning, but during peak hours, it can be overwhelming. By midday in high season, it’s packed with sunseekers and tour buses. But once the crowds leave in the late afternoon, the beach transforms.
With only a handful of nearby places to stay, Elafonisi becomes quiet, calm, and beautiful, especially at sunset or sunrise when the light reflects off the pink-tinged sand and shallow turquoise waters.
If you’re looking to experience the natural beauty of Elafonisi and nearby Kedrodasos Beach without the chaos, staying overnight is the way to do it.
🌅 Why I Recommend It
I’ve stayed at Elafonisi Resort by Kalomirakis Family before, and I’ll be staying there again in August this year. It’s simple, peaceful, and perfectly placed to enjoy the beach before and after the day-trippers disappear.
I recently recommended it to an Australian friend who stayed there and sent me this message afterwards:
“Thanks for the Elafonisi Resort recommendation!! We absolutely loved it! And spent the day at Kedrodasos Beach, which was amazing!”
That sums it up perfectly.
🛏 Where to Stay
- Elafonisi Resort by Kalomirakis Family – well-located, friendly, and ideal for early or late beach access
- Beautiful Life Rooms with Sea View – a good-value alternative with basic comforts and warm hospitality
🛏 Browse stays near Elafonisi on Booking.com
💡 Top Tip: Stock up on snacks for your terrace – dining options are very limited in the evening, and there’s no real town centre nearby.
✨ Perfect For
- Sunrise and sunset lovers seeking solitude
- Beachgoers wanting to avoid the daytime crowds
- Travellers curious about Crete’s famous pink-sand beach
- A one-night stay to experience Elafonisi at its most peaceful
Rethymno Region
Plakias – Spectacular Scenery and Easy Beach Access
🧭 Overview
Set on Crete’s southern coast in the Rethymno region, Plakias is a convenient base for exploring some of the island’s most beautiful beaches and rugged inland scenery. While the town itself may not have the charm of smaller villages like Sougia or Loutro, it more than makes up for it with its location, landscape, and accessibility.
I’ve stayed here before and will be returning again in August — it’s a great spot for travellers who want to explore the south without being too remote.
💙 Why I Love It
The beaches near Plakias are the real highlight — particularly Ammoudi and Mikro Ammoudi, both of which offer stunning swimming in clear turquoise water and a laid-back vibe.
There’s also Preveli Beach nearby (go early to beat the crowds), and the surrounding landscape of cliffs, gorges, and olive groves is nothing short of spectacular.
One of my favourite food stops here is Taverna GioMa — a classic Greek taverna with a beautiful setting and consistently excellent food.
🛏 Where to Stay
Last time I stayed at Christos (adult only) — a charming, low-key guesthouse that suited the Plakias vibe perfectly. It’s well-run, clean, and within walking distance of both the beach and restaurants.
🛏 Browse more places to stay in Plakias on Booking.com
💡 Top Tip: Plakias is ideal if you want to explore the coast by car — inland villages and nearby beaches are easily accessible, but still feel off the beaten path.
✨ Perfect For
- Easy access to southern beaches like Ammoudi, Mikro Ammoudi, and Preveli
- A base to explore both coast and countryside
- Travellers who value scenery and convenience over town charm
- Returning visitors to Crete looking to see a different side
Heraklion Region
Matala – Tourist Buzz, Red Beach, and That Famous View
🧭 Overview
Matala, on Crete’s south-central coast, is one of the island’s most recognisable names — thanks to its famous caves, hippie history, and dramatic cliff-backed cove. While the town itself is more touristy than most of my other recommendations, it still earns a place on this list for two big reasons: location and views.
Matala makes a great 1–2 night stop, especially if you want easy access to some fantastic beaches and a bit more going on in the evenings.
🌅 Why It’s Worth a Visit
The highlight for me was the access to Red Beach — which you’ll find in my Hidden Beaches in Crete post — and the quieter Kommos Beach, which stretches for miles and offers a more open, windswept feel.
The town itself has some good shops and restaurants, but definitely caters more to tourists than locals. That said, it’s lively, walkable, and has a unique energy that some travellers really enjoy.
🛏 Where to Stay
I’d only recommend staying here if you can splurge on a sea-view or cove-facing room — that’s where the real magic is. The view from my accommodation was by far the best part of my time in Matala.
- Matala Caves Seafront Boutique Hotel – for unbeatable views and direct beach access
- There are many unique little apartments in Matala – take time to choose one with a great view.
🛏 Browse more stays in Matala on Booking.com
💡 Top Tip: Red Beach is best visited early in the morning or late afternoon — the light is beautiful, and the crowds are fewer.
✨ Perfect For
- A short stop to visit Red Beach and Kommos
- Travellers who don’t mind a touristy vibe in exchange for a great view
- Those interested in Crete’s 60s hippie history and cave culture
- A base with good beach access and evening activity
Lasithi Region
Plaka – Seaside Charm and Spinalonga Views Without the Fuss
🧭 Overview
Nestled in the Lasithi region, just a short distance from the more polished Elounda, Plaka is the kind of place that quietly captures your heart. It’s less flashy, more relaxed, and full of charm — with whitewashed guesthouses, sea views, and easy access to Spinalonga.
If you’ve read The Island by Victoria Hislop, this is the perfect base to imagine the story unfolding — in the narrow streets of Plaka and across the water on the haunting island of Spinalonga, once a leper colony.
💙 Why I Love It
Plaka feels authentic. The atmosphere is low-key, and the restaurants along the waterfront are fantastic — think fresh fish, cold wine, and views of Spinalonga glowing in the afternoon light.
You can take a short boat ride to Spinalonga, or enjoy a swim right from the shore. There’s just enough here to feel alive, but not enough to feel overrun.
It’s a place to slow down, reflect, and imagine the layers of history that surround you.
🛏 Where to Stay
Plaka has some truly lovely guesthouses and small hotels — many with sea views and stone façades that blend beautifully into the landscape.
- Plaka on the Water – upscale but discreet, with great design and location – choose the beach side units!
- Plaka Beach Cottages – charming cottages with warm hospitality and direct sea access
🛏 Browse more places to stay in Plaka on Booking.com
💡 Top Tip: Book a sea-facing room to make the most of the morning light and late sunsets over Spinalonga.
✨ Perfect For
- Visiting Spinalonga with ease
- Fans of The Island by Victoria Hislop
- Quiet charm with great food and views
- A more low-key alternative to nearby Elounda
Monastiraki – A Tiny Mountain Village with Big Flavour
🧭 Overview
Tucked between Agios Nikolaos and Ierapetra, Monastiraki is the kind of place you stumble upon by chance — and remember forever. I discovered it last year while looking for somewhere unique to stay and found a converted olive mill tucked into the hillside. I wasn’t disappointed.
This tiny mountain village is quiet by day, but come evening, it comes alive with a gentle buzz of locals and in-the-know travellers.
💙 Why I Love It
There’s a little taverna up the steps in the village square that might just serve the best Greek food I’ve ever had. You’ll need to book as people come from all over to eat here. But it’s more than worth it. The pistachio-crusted baked feta still lives rent-free in my mind.
Monastiraki has that rare quality: it’s undiscovered but not empty, beautiful but not curated. It’s also a fantastic base to explore eastern Crete, a wilder and less-visited part of the island.
🛏 Where to Stay
Accommodation here is simple and full of character. I stayed in a converted old olive mill, which was both affordable and full of charm.
- Monastiraki Village – unique, authentic, and peaceful
- Saint George House – another quiet gem with mountain views and easy access to the square ( I have booked 2 nights here in August)
🛏 Browse places to stay near Monastiraki on Booking.com
💡 Top Tip: Stay at least two nights to enjoy the slow rhythm — and don’t skip that taverna in the square.
✨ Perfect For
- Those who enjoy discovering hidden gems before they’re “found”
- Food lovers chasing unforgettable local dishes
- Travellers seeking a quiet, authentic mountain village
- A base for exploring wild eastern Crete
What to Know Before You Book
Best Time of Year for a Local Experience
To avoid the crowds but still enjoy beautiful weather, I recommend visiting in June, just before peak season, or in late August to September, when the sea is at its warmest and the pace of life begins to slow again.
You’ll still get long days, balmy evenings, and a vibrant buzz in the villages — but without the full summer crush of tour buses and package groups.
Renting a Car vs. Relying on Buses
Rent a car — always. While Crete has some public transport between major towns, it simply doesn’t reach many of the places in this guide. Renting a car gives you the freedom to explore tiny villages, quiet beaches, and scenic mountain roads on your own schedule.
🚗 Compare rental car prices in Crete here
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💡 Top Tip: Roads can be narrow and winding — especially in the mountains — so take your time, and always fill up when you see a petrol station.
Greek Hospitality: What to Expect
In my experience, the Greeks are among the warmest, most welcoming hosts in Europe. Whether you’re in a mountain village or a seaside town, you’ll be greeted with genuine smiles, helpful tips, and often a complimentary glass of raki.
Tourism is important to the island, but it never feels transactional. The hospitality is real, and if you follow the off-the-beaten-track route I suggest, you’ll experience a side of Crete where visitors are still treated as guests, not numbers.
Map of Where to Stay in Crete
⭐ Tip: Click the star icon on the map title bar (“Where to Stay in Crete: Beyond the Resorts”) to save this map to your Google account for easy access later.
Planning Your Trip to Crete? These Are My Ultimate Travel Resources
My Go-To Travel Resources for Crete
– Best Accommodation – Booking.com
– Best Tours & Experiences – Viator.com
– Best Travel Insurance – EktaTravelling.com
– Best Car Hire – AutoEurope.com
💡 Top Tip: Book your car early if you’re visiting in July or August – options in smaller towns go fast and it can become very expensive.
Need More Inspiration for Your Trip?
Explore more of my Crete travel guides:
- 🌊 Hidden Beaches in Crete – Escape the crowds
- 🥾 Hiking the Samaria Gorge – Everything you need to know
- 🧭 Coming Soon – Crete Itinerary
Wrapping Up: Where to Stay in Crete for a Local Experience
Crete is an island of contrasts — dramatic coastlines, sleepy mountain villages, and beach towns where life moves at its own pace. I hope this guide has helped you discover where to stay if you’re looking to go beyond the big resorts and experience the island’s true character.
These are all places I’ve stayed (or will be staying!) and genuinely loved — and I hope they help shape your own unforgettable adventure.
💌 Looking for more? I’m working on my full Crete itinerary next — so check back soon or join my instagram page to stay updated.
👇🏽 Save this guide, share it with your travel companions, and don’t forget to pin, post, or message it to yourself for later
Written by Richard Hoskisson
Founder of The Cosmos Traveller
With over 30 years of travel experience across France, South Africa, the UAE and Greece – and many more far flung places – Richard helps curious travellers explore hidden gems, discover culturally-rich adventures and enrich their travel stories.
Published July 2025